Greetings
I have just bought an NC 2005 90000 K's
I am having trouble selecting 1st gear
Would anyone have a solution
And a naive question, what does the switch on the clutch pedal arm do
Cheers
Steven
NC Ist gear
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Re: NC Ist gear
Difficult or noisy or both?
First thing would be to check clutch engagement/adjustment. Next step is usually to swap oil to to your choice of magic brew (Redline for mine, the MT.net choice seems to be a Ford oil), having a good look at the oil that comes out, and whatever may be in it!
Beyond that I'll leave it to anyone who knows the peculiarities of NC boxes, but as both they and the NA/NB boxes were made by Aisan the weaknesses and fixes are probably pretty similar. Selectors/synchros?
First thing would be to check clutch engagement/adjustment. Next step is usually to swap oil to to your choice of magic brew (Redline for mine, the MT.net choice seems to be a Ford oil), having a good look at the oil that comes out, and whatever may be in it!
Beyond that I'll leave it to anyone who knows the peculiarities of NC boxes, but as both they and the NA/NB boxes were made by Aisan the weaknesses and fixes are probably pretty similar. Selectors/synchros?
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Re: NC Ist gear
Thank you
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Re: NC Ist gear
The switch on the clutch is the clutch pedal switch.
It connects to the ECU and does a few things.
Cancels cruise control when clutch is depressed (cruise control will not work if switch is faulty)
Stuffs around with throttle position when the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Ie holding your foot flat on the floor is not always full throttle as it is an electronic throttle.
In some countries don't be surprised that you cannot start a NC without the clutch depressed. Not a legal requirement here so ours don't have that enabled.
Probably other stuff that only the ECU boffins in Japan that programmed it know about.
Also comes into play when you have an ECUTEK reflash. Enables you to have launch control, throttle blips on down shift and flat shifting on up shift modes.
BTW, I have the Ford Motorcraft Oil in my NC box.
To be honest the shift was not so different to before, but I have no idea what was in it before, possibly still the factory oil. Who knows when you are having it changed at 85K and you are the 4th owner.
I have had 2 NC's(2007 NC1 LE and 2009 NC2) and have found both 1st and 2 gears a bit notchy when cold. But perfectly fine when warm.
I'd go with the change oil route first regardless.
Make sure you go with a GL-4 oil in 75W-90.
Not a GL-5 which is what a a lot of the silly online lube guides things say to use.
It connects to the ECU and does a few things.
Cancels cruise control when clutch is depressed (cruise control will not work if switch is faulty)
Stuffs around with throttle position when the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Ie holding your foot flat on the floor is not always full throttle as it is an electronic throttle.
In some countries don't be surprised that you cannot start a NC without the clutch depressed. Not a legal requirement here so ours don't have that enabled.
Probably other stuff that only the ECU boffins in Japan that programmed it know about.
Also comes into play when you have an ECUTEK reflash. Enables you to have launch control, throttle blips on down shift and flat shifting on up shift modes.
BTW, I have the Ford Motorcraft Oil in my NC box.
To be honest the shift was not so different to before, but I have no idea what was in it before, possibly still the factory oil. Who knows when you are having it changed at 85K and you are the 4th owner.
I have had 2 NC's(2007 NC1 LE and 2009 NC2) and have found both 1st and 2 gears a bit notchy when cold. But perfectly fine when warm.
I'd go with the change oil route first regardless.
Make sure you go with a GL-4 oil in 75W-90.
Not a GL-5 which is what a a lot of the silly online lube guides things say to use.
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