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What is the consesnus on the Evans waterless coolant in our beloved.....old NA6/8's?

just courious.

not cheap. would need 2x 3.77 L bottles to get it filled completely.
or at least 1 full bottle. plyus a bit of a 2nd bott;le with some spare.

at around $80 a bottle its not an cheap option.....but nor is running on E85....you get my point.

is it bragging rights? or serious good choice if your happy to spend the money.

that's not considering the stuff that you need to pre fill it with to get all the water out.

I understand how it works. the water-less can get much hotter before it starts to boil & stops cooling. I suppose its a good option for turbo cars....

but those who know....your opinion is highly valued

Former budget operator trips up?
Non Glycol option for racetracks, does your car even overheat? If so, why? Maybe the water to glycol ratio is too strong.

Personally I see it as being a way to cover up for a badly designed or maintained cooling system.

If your system is reaching a point where it's boiling I'd suggest fixing that instead of just sticking in a fluid that doesn't boil.

In my experience the best performing coolant is plain water plus Redline Water Wetter. Water on its own doesn't work so well because of its high surface tension. Water Wetter reduces the surface tension, and is also a corrosion inhibitor.

Adding anti-freeze reduces the performance of the coolant, because it is more viscous than water and has a lower specific heat capacity. So if you need anti-freeze, use the minimum amount to get the job done. I use none at all (Queensland ).

I looked at the literature for the Evans product a few years ago and concluded that it is neat anti-freeze. Therefore it should have the lowest performance of any coolant mix.

so we are talking bragging rights.

to OP, is there anything wrong that needs fixing? Is your car overheating? Is it a cooling issue or a tune issue? An airflow issue? There is lot's of info around this forum and the big forum (MT), fiddling at he edges with expensive coolant isn't going to fix a problematic or sub standard cooling system.

^

exactly.

a cooling system should be designed to cool effectively in most scenarios with even shitty coolant that's overmixed, and even without the proper amount of it.

Anti freeze/boil is to help it along at the extreme ends of the scale (where the limits of water are reached) and mainly to add anti corrosion properties.


Hell, my bone stock cooling system still cooled fine when it was about 1/3 empty and unable to pressurise since it had a leak. (yeah, it overheated when more leaked out, but it managed to go fine even with a fair coolant loss)

Red_Bullet wrote:to OP, is there anything wrong that needs fixing? Is your car overheating? Is it a cooling issue or a tune issue? An airflow issue? There is lot's of info around this forum and the big forum (MT), fiddling at he edges with expensive coolant isn't going to fix a problematic or sub standard cooling system.

No cooling is fine. I was genuinely courious. Some bloke i was talking to spoke about it.

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Yes STM, bragging rights in MX5, normal in karting circles, I believe.

Once, I heard a bang under the bonnet, didn't notice anything wrong other than ALT light.
Kept driving for 40 odd kms, only when I got to the traffic lights did the temp go up, "thermosyphoned" fine without a water pump (now that it was up to temp anyway). Got me home!