The SP has had its first problem "HELP"

[bear2230]

Hi All

So driving home today stoped at the lights and found it really hard to put it in first.WTF.
So crunch cruntch and I got it in second and drove it home OK but clutch pedal felt a bit spongy.
Managed to get it parked in the garage so home safe anyway.
Now I can't get any gear at all. Just cruntch cruntch cruntch.

The clutch is 3000km old Exedy Sports tuff, Mania intalled it so that should be fine.

So obviously got some kind of clutch problem. Fluid level looks like its full. Clutch cylinder??

What do you guys reckon?????

Richard

[NMX516]

Clutch slave cylinder a definite possibility - a failed one will give all of those symptoms. Easy to replace.

[bear2230]

Clutch slave cylinder a definite possibility - a failed one will give all of those symptoms. Easy to replace.

So two hours later goes into gear but not easily and I don't have a great deal of confidence.
I will leave it for a while/do some research. Does seem like the slave cylinder but the last time I replaced one of those I had a Datsun white 1600 with red and blue stripes down the back doors like the racing Bluebirds. So that would have been about 1985……….Holy crap I can't be that old…..I can still remember throwing up at my 21st and getting kicked out of Captains at Cronulla Leagues club.

[JBT]

It all sounds like hydraulics problems.

[NMX516]

Turn the steering full lock to the left, reach in to the slave cylinder and pull the rubber boot back - if the rubber boot contains any hydraulic fluid, the slave is stuffed.

[bear2230]

Turn the steering full lock to the left, reach in to the slave cylinder and pull the rubber boot back - if the rubber boot contains any hydraulic fluid, the slave is stuffed.

Pretty hard to get in there so took the wheel off. Rubber boot looks good and no sign of fluid externally and can't really see any fluid under the boot but really hard to pull it back and because its only just started maybe it just hasn't leaked much yet.

[MattR]

Check the rod into the master cylinder for fluid, the piston shot and allowing the fluid to push pass.

[bear2230]

Check the rod into the master cylinder for fluid, the piston shot and allowing the fluid to push pass.

No fluid anywhere, which is a shame as I could have a go at them.
I will have to take it to Ben at Port Hacking Auto next week. Bugger.

Thanks for your help guys.

[KevGoat]

When my Master Cyl carked itself I had fluid spraying all over the interior firewall, so check inside the car as well ... corroded the paint inside before I realised what was wrong.

[Lokiel]

Some things to consider:

My ex-housemate's NA8 clutch went all spongy on him and he got stuck a few blocks from home so called the RACQ.
The clutch hose that runs from the master cylinder across the firewall to the passenger side, then does a 180* back across the firewall (down to the coils, then to the slave cylinder) had sprung a leak and had sprayed clutch fluid all over the firewalll and surrounding shelf.

The RACQ guy ran sone emergency tape along the hose, re-filled the clutch master cylinder and said go straight home and try NOT to change gears if you can.
Chris managed to drive the car home in 3rd once he got going without needing to stop.

We washed out the engine bay when he got home since "clutch fluid = brake fluid = highly toxic to paintwork". DO THIS NOW IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO ALREADY!

We replaced the convoluted clutch line with a short-straight/direct clutch line from MX5 Plus and also replaced the slave cylinder with a new one since they're prone to failure and his was still the original slave cylinder.

FYI: The reason that the clutch line is so "convoluted" is that:
* On US cars, the clutch is on the other side; for some stupid reason, on RHD cars, rather than go straight from the clutch master cylinder to the coil, they kept the original route across the firewall and did a 180* turn back across the firewall (since our clutch is on the other side).
* Supposedly the clutch coils are there to make it easier to pre-bleed the clutch lines at the factory since the clutch master-cylinder->slave-cylinder assembly is a self-contained system that is bolted in at the end; the coils actually make it harder for YOU to bleed your clutch line (the coils themselves increase the potential for air pockets).

In short:
1. Clean the engine bay.
2. Replace the clutch hose since it may be corroded (better yet, replace the whole clutch line with a short/direct line).
3. Replace the clutch slave cylinder.

This is all DIY stuff.
The only real hassle is screwing in the clutch line.
if you attach it AFTER bolting in the clutch slave cylinder, start by screwing in the slave cylinder end FIRST since it's at an odd angle and is impossible to thread-on unless your approach angle is correct.
Chris did it the other way around and spent about 2 hours trying to fit it. Experience has taught me that if you can't thread something easily with one or two goes then continuing in the same manner is fruitless OR you just end up stripping the thread (not something you ever want, especially on a fluid line). I suggested he undo the master cylinder end to give him maximum flexibility in fitting the slave cylinder end but he didn't want to since it took him 10 minutes to bolt it in in the first place so I left him alone to continue his efforts! Eventually he conceded and found it MUCH easier to attach the slave cylinder end!

[Mr Morlock]

Do a visual check of all connection points If there is no evidence of fluid leaking perhaps there is air in the fluid which might account for sponginess but you might think there is evidence of leakage say on a bleeder. A workshop manual will tell you how to bleed the clutch. By all means take it to a mechanic but if you cannot release the clutch its a real risk. Another option is a mechanic come to you.

[bear2230]

So I had a good look in the light and I think I found the problem.

Looks like there is a split in the stupid twisting line line from the reservoir to the slave cylinder. Ive never noticed that before.
I will see if Mania sell that straight line as well and have a go at it myself. Bugger it, they were of course closed today. probably for Bathurst.

EDIT: OK so called Automotive + and this is the only time I have ever been glad that Queensland don't have daylight saving as they are still open.
$92.00 for a braided stainless cable + about $10.00 postage. Pretty with that.

Thank you to all that helped. I really appreciate it. I will update when its fixed or the other F word.

Richard

[Garry]

Been there several years ago. I couldn't get access to it so took it to a brake/clutch place. The guy was expecting standard MX5 access. He wasn't impressed when I picked the car up. Their first year apprentice was the only one in the workshop with the dexterity to get assess to it. It took double the time they were expecting. Gotta love an SP sometimes.

[Lokiel]

I still recommend replacing the clutch slave cylinder while you're there, it will only take an extra couple of minutes to install while you're doing the clutch line (held by 2 bolts) - they can be sourced easily enough from eBay.

[bear2230]

Will do slave cylinder as well.

MAZDA Part number NA0141920
Genuine Mazda $133.00 Mania
Equal by Daiken $68.00Mania
IL Motersport $45.00

i will call Sydney Brake and Clutch on Monday as well.

Aftermarket ones sell for $14.00 in the States.