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The new Deckspeed sump on my car leaks oil. Apparently it can only be fixed by pulling the motor out or dropping the K frame. The last attempt by the engine builder was not successful so it needs doing again.

Any offers of help and/or equipment out there?

Can offer these in trade, and maybe some other stuff:
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=66411

if you paid an engine builder to do it then I would recommend that you go back to the guy. The reasoning is that if you do it - through a friend or a another professional and any probs arise the original engine builder may blame the rectification for any fault that might later arise- hope you get my drift.

Thanks for your thoughts Mr M. Engine builder blames Deckspeed. Engine builder got paid for building the engine and not for the time he spent on his second attempt to seal the sump. Deckspeed blame engine builder for incorrectly sealing the sump. Deckspeed are 11 hours drive away. I just want it fixed.

Simple contract law, who is the deal (contract) with to build the engine? If one party (A) contracts out a service to another (B) your contract is still with A you have no contract with B. A cannot 'force' you to deal with B as A is responsible for the work done by B. Consumer Protection law covers this sort of thing.

You r having no luck with your car.
I would start threatening things ie. Long winded letters hinting at legal action. Get someone local to fix it and send them the bill (that will get their attention).
Don't let them hide behind an 11 hour drive.

I doubt he wants/needs the hassle, someone help him pull the motor and re-seal.
Good luck Dave.

THIS NOT PROFESSIONAL LEGAL ADVICE RATHER MY OPINION!

Just a warning on getting it fixed by somebody else then trying to get the cost back, this causes a lot of disputes. Make sure the initial company is offered the chance to repair, make sure you get something in writing. If they refuse then you can think about getting somebody else to repair then seek a small claims judgment.

Long winded letters not needed, as under the ACL, the repairer must meet the consumer guarantees of providing services:
> with due care and skill the repairer guarantees to use an acceptable level of skill or technical knowledge when providing the services, and take all necessary care to avoid loss or damage
> which are fit for any specified purpose the repairer guarantees that services will be reasonably fit for any purpose specified by the consumer; and any products resulting from the services are also fit for that purpose. The repairer also guarantees that services, and any resulting products, are of a standard expected to achieve any desired results that the consumer told the repairer about
> within a reasonable time (when no time is set) the repairer guarantees to supply the service within a reasonable time. What is ‘reasonable’ will depend on the nature of the services.

http://www.consumerlaw.gov.au/content/Content.aspx?doc=questions_complaints/vic.htm

M1474 wrote:I doubt he wants/needs the hassle, someone help him pull the motor and re-seal.
Good luck Dave.

/\ That.
Any offers of help and/or advice on the best way of doing it?

Bump for offers of assistance with resealing the sump please (for the avoidance of doubt I need no further advice on the legal aspects thanks).

Do you know what exactly needs doing?

Is it simply plugging a gap? replacing the whole sump gasket?

or is the new sump not machined flat enough at the sealing surface? (meaning it would need to come off and be sent out for machining)


if the sump is flat enough (only marginally off) you should be able to just lift the engine up a bit and crack the sump down slightly, then squirt a bead of gasket goo on the edge and clamp it back.
Would save having to remove the whole engine (and gearbox)

Another option..... are you sure the shop tightened the sump bolts enough, and evenly?
Maybe they aren't tight enough to squeeze the gasket properly? (ie: leaving a gap)

The last option is easiest, since you may not even need to remove the engine/sump or anything, just torque the bolts up in situ

hks_kansei wrote:Do you know what exactly needs doing?


..... Another option..... are you sure the shop tightened the sump bolts enough, and evenly?
Maybe they aren't tight enough to squeeze the gasket properly? (ie: leaving a gap)

Or it could be due to overtightening of the sump bolts that has squeezed out most of the sealant. This is particularly so if a gasket is involved. During my less informed and experienced days, I had to change the valve cover rubber gasket in a Mitsubishi frequently due to overtightening after each valve clearance adjustment job. Like the valve cover, those bolts don't take a lot of torque.

It would be lovely to think it might work as suggested; to lift the motor slightly, loosen all the sump bolts, drop the sump slightly, put a bead of sealant in, and then retighten the bolts to the correct torque and in the correct order.

What are the chances of it going that simply?

zoomzoom wrote:It is possible to remove the sump with the engine in the car, I did so earlier this year to install a baffle but it definitely is not a fun job! I did it by removing the front cross member with the car up on stands. It is a bit of a task any way you approach it.

Cheers,

Tim

The above quote was taken from the 'high oil pressure' thread.

Just wondering if you could loosen your mounts and use an engine crane to lift that bit more for some extra clearance.


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Do you know exactly what the problem is? Caused by?

David the half moon gaskets that go on either end of the sump are the most common place they leak the SE ones are different to the early 1.8 engine you MUST use OEM ones when building the engine the after market ones will leak I never use them as they are poor quality and don't fit we'll on SE engine they definitely don't fit they are to short. When I baffled the sump I filled it with a solution over night and checked it for leaks I would not have supplied it if it leaked
Daniel