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Just changed oil and oil filter in na6 for the first time. Added 3L, but it indicates the level is over full. Is this normal? Is this a problem? Thought I should be able to get 3.6l in.

There will be oil still in various chambers and galleries - shouldn't be a problem as long as not overly, over full. Once you've run it for a while she might use a bit more oil as it gets into the filter and other areas.

Start the car to get the oil pressure up. Then turn it off wait 5 mins and check again.

The oil needs to get into and fill up the filter

My oil change procedure is to put fresh oil into the new filter and allow as much as possible to soak into the filter as possible and then add as much as possible so as not to completely fill then put the filter on as quickly as you can thus saving strain on the pump trying to fill the filter on start up.

i'd just drop 3.6L in it if that is what the manual says.once then engine has run for 5 minutes. 99.9% of engines would show oil on the F line.

Thanks everyone.

I've dríven it and re-checked. No change. Going to leave it. It's on the top line of the 'F'.

Drives beautifully now.

I've always found that oil drains almost completely out of the oil filter when left over-night (have tried Mazda/Ryco/Wesfil/Valvoline/SCA filters) on these engines with their side mount position. So I just let the sump drain over-night, change the filter the next day, re-bolt the sump & put new oil in.

Less messy too as no oil spills down the side of the block from the filter spin on location which is handy if you put on the filter from the top of the engine bay like I do.

That is a damn good tip if it works as you say

Indeed. Did it in the rain on the dirt today. Super ghey.

SuperMazdaKart wrote:I've always found that oil drains almost completely out of the oil filter when left over-night (have tried Mazda/Ryco/Wesfil/Valvoline/SCA filters) on these engines with their side mount position. So I just let the sump drain over-night, change the filter the next day, re-bolt the sump & put new oil in.

Less messy too as no oil spills down the side of the block from the filter spin on location which is handy if you put on the filter from the top of the engine bay like I do.

I was always taught to drain the oil when the engine is warm (at least, if not hot but you need to be careful) as this helps all the oil to drain out fully.....

Are you saying you drain the sump and leave it overnight before removing the filter, then replace the filter, sump plug and oil the next day?

Yes that's the order I do it in. Of course you can still do it on a hot engine but I don't like doing that, risk of getting burns & bit messier etc. An over night drain will let as much oil out anyway as it can whether the engine is hot or cold at the start.

Sometimes I will start the drain on a warm engine (maybe 1 or 2 hours after a good drive) & while warm loosen but not remove the oil filter. Sometimes the oil filter is a bit tight to remove on a cold engine (haha, my bad if I over tightened it) but wearing rubber gloves helps to get just enough grip to move it.

Nearly every early MX5 has had the yellow plastic top of the dipstick broken off at some stage. Lots of them have been replaced. Almost every Mazda B6 and BP model has a different dipstick length. RWD and FWD are different. SOHC and DOHC are different. Yours wouldn't be the first case where someone's bunged in the wrong one.

I'd go and compare dipstick lengths with some mates.

manga_blue wrote:I'd go and compare dipstick lengths with some mates.

Just be really, really clear about what you mean when you asking them though... e.g. I wouldn't go around asking you can see your mates dipstick and compare the length to yours.... !

gslender wrote:

manga_blue wrote:I'd go and compare dipstick lengths with some mates.

Just be really, really clear about what you mean when you asking them though... e.g. I wouldn't go around asking you can see your mates dipstick and compare the length to yours.... !

It seems we're not alone.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=551446