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I drive a 91 Eunos Roadster with a 1.6L engine. It's currently NA, but there may be plans to turbo it in the future for a maximum of 150rwkW. Not sure how much torque that is.

I'll need a new clutch by the end of the year regardless and it's a fairly costly exercise so I'm breaking it up into parts first then labour when it absolutely needs to be done.

Firstly, I'm not sure what seals should be replaced at the same time. Rear main always seems to come up. What else is there?

Clutch wise, I like 949 Racing's SuperMiata Sport Clutch but it'll be out of stock until September (earliest) and I've got no idea when my current clutch will go.

Flyin' Miata's happy meal package takes me to a 1.8 flywheel and it's more costly.

Mania offers the Exedy Sports Tuff, and I'm not sure how well that will stack up to the above products. Plus they're asking about the same as the 949Racing product above and I don't understand what exactly they mean by replacing the machined flywheel for warranty.

Depending on where you are give Automotive Plus (MX5 Plus) a call and speak to Jason or Jeff. They do good quality clutch combos, I got a HD clutch kit and lightened flywheel done in my NB8B. You can also discuss with them the possibility of going turbo down the track and the power level you want and they can get the HD clutch beefed up slightly now to handle more power in the future. Even still Im sure they would post it to where ever you are with the additional cost for postage.

Definitely do rear main seal as you have mentioned.

I done the rear g/box seal I think where the tail shaft slides in and I also had to get the front gearbox seal replaced (after the box had already been put back in) was told this one almost never leaks/needs replacing but mine did.

speed freak wrote:Depending on where you are give Automotive Plus (MX5 Plus) a call and speak to Jason or Jeff. They do good quality clutch combos, I got a HD clutch kit and lightened flywheel done in my NB8B. You can also discuss with them the possibility of going turbo down the track and the power level you want and they can get the HD clutch beefed up slightly now to handle more power in the future. Even still Im sure they would post it to where ever you are with the additional cost for postage.

Definitely do rear main seal as you have mentioned.

I done the rear g/box seal I think where the tail shaft slides in and I also had to get the front gearbox seal replaced (after the box had already been put back in) was told this one almost never leaks/needs replacing but mine did.

NSW, and I think they're in Queensland. Although considering I'm shipping any other options it's a moot point.

Their website indicates they use an Exedy disk and their own clutch cover/other bits. Not really much other information. I'll give them a buzz tomorrow to find out more.

You don't say why you are talking about modded clutches. If its a standard car used the way it was intended you don't need to mod it. Exedy is a first class maker of clutches- OEM suppliers and available just about anywhere- you can get a quote easily for parts and labour from the local fitters and a warranty. Plenty of guys are talking of 100.000 klms for a clutch. Clutches either need replacing or not - i.e. if its shuddering or slipping then its time.

Mr M,
Please pay attention or I will throw a piece of chaulk at you!
It's currently NA, but there may be plans to turbo it in the future for a maximum of 150rwkW. Not sure how much torque that is.
Greg.

HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

Therefore
204 = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252
Torque = (204 x 5252)/7,250
Torque = 150

Tumbles wrote:... I don't understand what exactly they mean by replacing the machined flywheel for warranty.

If you want to have a warranty on the new clutch, you have to give them your flywheel in exchange for one that has been machined to remove high spots or imperfections.

correct Taminga- did not read it properly.

WEell done good Sir. I must admit I chuckled as I typed, thinking of a wonderful teacher that I had some years ago, she was European, tiny and the threat of chaulk throwing was her only weapon.
Greg.

david_syd_au wrote:

Tumbles wrote:... I don't understand what exactly they mean by replacing the machined flywheel for warranty.

If you want to have a warranty on the new clutch, you have to give them your flywheel in exchange for one that has been machined to remove high spots or imperfections.

Most Places Just machine your flywheel
For them to have an exchange unit they would have to have 200 000 + flywheels in stock ( NOT F*#%ing likely)
\

taminga16 wrote:Mr M,
Please pay attention or I will throw a piece of chaulk at you!
It's currently NA, but there may be plans to turbo it in the future for a maximum of 150rwkW. Not sure how much torque that is.
Greg.

Actually if you are being a pedantic academic, chalk is the accepted spelling.

There are PLENTY of 1.6 turbos running around with standard clutches, though for what it is worth I would hedge my bets and get
a cheap 1.8 fly and exedy clutch.

Mr Morlock wrote:Clutches either need replacing or not - i.e. if its shuddering or slipping then its time.

It's shuddering sometimes, but not slipping. Not sure if that's a be all and end all analysis though.

Magpie wrote:HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

Therefore
204 = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252
Torque = (204 x 5252)/7,250
Torque = 150

Is that 150 foot pounds?

david_syd_au wrote:

Tumbles wrote:... I don't understand what exactly they mean by replacing the machined flywheel for warranty.

If you want to have a warranty on the new clutch, you have to give them your flywheel in exchange for one that has been machined to remove high spots or imperfections.

So, I just give Mania my flywheel and they give me a machined one? Almost sounds too good to be true.

bootz wrote:There are PLENTY of 1.6 turbos running around with standard clutches, though for what it is worth I would hedge my bets and get
a cheap 1.8 fly and exedy clutch.

I'd prefer to avoid upgrading to a bigger flywheel and clutch for now, even though it'll go right in. If I was considering this option I'd just jump straight towards the offerings by Flyin' Miata.

Magpies maths are too simple and therefore incorrect. He assumes max power is at the redline.

Also you will have a hard time knowing the flywheel torque on an aussie dyno they just arent set up that way here.

Also just get an extreme or exedy HD for your stock flywheel, get the flywheel machined also and call it a day.

Dann

Is that 150 foot pounds? - Yes

NitroDann wrote:Magpies maths are too simple and therefore incorrect. He assumes max power is at the redline.

Yes it is a simple formula, just substitute the RPM where the power is made and you will have the correct answer.

http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/power_and_torque.htm

- Power and Torque -
ESSENTIAL CONCEPTS:
Torque is measured; Power is calculated

In order to discuss powerplants in any depth, it is essential to understand the concepts of POWER and TORQUE.

HOWEVER, in order to understand POWER, you must first understand ENERGY and WORK.
If you have not reviewed these concepts for a while, it would be helpful to do so before studying this article. CLICK HERE for a quick review of Energy and Work.

It often seems that people are confused about the relationship between POWER and TORQUE.

For example, we have heard engine builders, camshaft consultants, and other technical experts ask customers:

"Do you want your engine to make HORSEPOWER or TORQUE?"

And the question is usually asked in a tone which strongly suggests that these experts believe power and torque are somehow mutually exclusive.

In fact, the opposite is true, and you should be clear on these facts:

In fact, the opposite is true, and you should be clear on these facts:
1. POWER (the rate of doing WORK) is dependent on TORQUE and RPM.
2. TORQUE and RPM are the MEASURED quantities of engine output.
3. POWER is CALCULATED from torque and RPM.

I think what Dann is saying Is that peak torque is not usually made at max RPM.
It may be making considerably more at say 4000rpm, especially in a turbo situation.

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