Engine break in procedures

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:45 am

Hi all,

I'm rebuilding my engine in me track car >> viewtopic.php?f=57&t=55049

I'm starting to think ahead and was wondering what folks do to break in the engine. I've read lots on the topic; everything from just drive the snot out of it with no care at all, to laboriously long steps with about a half-dozen oil/filter changes with gradual increases in engine load (as if the engine was made of glass).

The engine will be running a supercharger with somewhere between 10-12 psi of boost pressure, but thinking was to add that after break in.

I've also got another added dimension in that I'm going to install the MS3Pro engine computer in this car for the first time, so not only do I need to trouble shoot the ECU start and idle, but it will be a rebuilt engine too - maybe I should start the car on the stock NA6 ECU and swap over to the dedicated ECU after break in? In saying that, there is a truck load of engine builders who start a new engine for the first time on a new ECU that hasn't got a tune or idle correct - I'm guessing they do it on the new engine with rough starting, super cold and less than ideal first-time idle conditions???

So, let's start the discussion on best/appropriate break in procedure !!

G

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:47 am

Oh, and because this isn't controversial enough, also outline what oils you would use - I'm thinking I'll run a cheap dino oil initially, and after the first startup, and run around the block, change the filter and oil and switch to a semi- or full synth.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:50 am

Most important things is to bed the rings in as quickly as possible using moderate pressure (=WOT on an n/a engine, not sure what with a boosted one) and mineral oil, not synthetic. If you take too long to bed them or if you're too gentle or if you use synthetic then you risk glazing the rings instead.

I used Castrol RX diesel oil. It's a popular recommendation. You need to bed them in the first 300kms (the sooner the better) and keep the dino oil in for 1,000km

Also this: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=51984&hilit=castrol

If you're bedding in new cams and cam followers as well then there's a good case for throwing in a load of K-Mart oil first up and just letting it idle until well hot and throwing that lot of oil out before using the Castrol RX. It also flushes any residue you might have missed in the build.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:58 am

manga_blue wrote:Most important things is to bed the rings in as quickly as possible using moderate pressure (=WOT on an n/a engine, not sure what with a boosted one) and mineral oil, not synthetic. If you take too long to bed them or if you're too gentle or if you use synthetic then you risk glazing the rings instead.

I used Castrol RX diesel oil. It's a popular recommendation. You need to bed them in the first 300kms and keep the dino oil in for 1,000km

Also this: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=51984&hilit=castrol

Cool. So what about the process when you have a new engine computer - not really possible to jump in and go for a drive? Avoid that and get the engine running first, or would it be ok for it to be idling for extended periods whilst the niggles are worked out? (I guess I'm thinking something longer than would be needed if the stock ECU was installed).

G

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:03 am

manga_blue wrote:I used Castrol RX diesel oil.

I take it this is used because of the stronger detergents and ability to suspend material in the oil?

manga_blue wrote:If you're bedding in new cams and cam followers as well then there's a good case for throwing in a load of K-Mart oil first up and just letting it idle until well hot and throwing that lot of oil out before using the Castrol RX. It also flushes any residue you might have missed in the build.

This might be the good time to then play with the ECU with a few starts/idles and re-starts and after that, dump the cheap oil and then fill up with the Castrol RX ?? Mmmm interesting.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:16 am

Not sure about the ecu, g. I sort of recall that rich mixtures assisted bedding and lean mixtures were bad. Try a google on bedding rings rich mixture ...

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:27 am

You just want to get lots of ring expansion in both directions. So open the throttle to zero vacuum and then snap it closed hard. Work your way up the remaining starting at 2500 other so and finish somewhere sensible like 5k. Do this over an hour or so and then you can drive it to work etc but don't let it sit at low throttle cruising too much for the first few hundred ks.

The main thing is getting the air pumping on and off throttle to expand the rings against the fresh hone and bed those in.

Dann

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:38 am

NitroDann wrote:You just want to get lots of ring expansion in both directions. So open the throttle to zero vacuum and then snap it closed hard. Work your way up the remaining starting at 2500 other so and finish somewhere sensible like 5k. Do this over an hour or so and then you can drive it to work etc but don't let it sit at low throttle cruising too much for the first few hundred ks.

The main thing is getting the air pumping on and off throttle to expand the rings against the fresh hone and bed those in.

Dann

Thanks Dann.

Would you be concerned with the initial messing around that a new ecu will require on a new engine? Big deal or nothing to worry about?

I can't see myself spending long, given the number of ECUs I've installed, but you never know what startup grief or idle/running issue I may have and it may take a few mins to sort etc. I didn't want to be slowly wrecking a fresh engine when I could change tact and just install the stock ecu and harness/sensors etc.

G

JBT · Postby **JBT** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:53 am

Tip: Run the engine on the starter with the plugs out until you get a firm oil pressure indication before the first start.

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:54 am

If your engine is stock internally and you are sure you have a base map for the product I wouldn't worry at all. If no base map then get the ecu running on someone else's car first. If it's modified there is no choice get someone you trust to drive with very very specific instructions and you tune it.

Dann

hb · Postby hb » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:31 am

this is what i used for my old cars break in, in this order. royal purple was used when i was satisfied it was run in sufficiently. the coles oil was only used for the first 20 minutes to run in the new cam

lizard · Postby **lizard** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:40 am

After the rebuild of my S2000 motor in the PRB the engine builder said best way to break it in was drive it like its stolen so I did . Never had a problem afterwards .Did the same in the Forester turbo once again never had a problem

vrmmmpshhh · Postby **vrmmmpshhh** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:56 am

best way to bed in an engine is to take it to the track.

deviant · Postby **deviant** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:06 am

JBT wrote:Tip: Run the engine on the starter with the plugs out until you get a firm oil pressure indication before the first start.

But don't keep it cranking for to long, starter motor will get a touch warm!

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:33 am

hb wrote:this is what i used for my old cars break in, in this order. royal purple was used when i was satisfied it was run in sufficiently. the coles oil was only used for the first 20 minutes to run in the new cam

Love it!

I just bought 3 filters, some cheap Nulon dino oil (on special) for the initial start/idle, and some Castrol RX for the run in period, and then I'll use my good Penrite HPR premium quality engine oil once I've put 500+ klms on it.