mx5cartalk.com

Although it's recommended, local Repco doesn't know of it. Is there one available?
It's supposed to be the "copper variety anti-sieze" that means you can get the plugs out ok again in a couple of years.
The special silicon grease used by some on the plug connections I can probably do without....
http://www.techguys.ca/howto/spark_plugs.html

I use this product regularly although never on spark plugs because routine servicing sees to that but I do not think that it would do any harm. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/g ... copper_eze
Greg.

Yes that looks like it. At first it looked like 500gm packs, but there is a 50gm I see.

(Waits for Dann to say it's no good.......)

Use this stuff. It is awesome.

Any spark plug, especially one being torqued into an alloy head, should have the plug threads coated in a light coating of this stuff.

There are other brands out there that work just as well but by chance I happen to use this Penrite stuff myself.

I also use this stuff for my sump plug and certain other threads into alloy.

It's traditional to use graphite powder for spark plug threads. As I recall the threads are the earth path for the plugs and graphite is electrically conductive. Non-conductive lubricants can weaken the spark. If you don't have graphite powder then you can rub an HB pencil all over the threads.

I think they all use fine metal particles, but usually suspended in a heatproof grease.
Copper would be one of the most conductive...I also notice there's nickel flavour..

I've used the Loctite graphite based one on spark plugs and wheel studs for as long as I can remember and it is cheap & easy to source at Ripco. Seems to do the job!

Also

just found this

Spark plug installation

When installing the spark plug into the engine, note the following: The contact surface on the spark plug seat and engine must be clean. Today's spark plugs do not need graphite or graphite lubricant on the thread. They are treated with an anti-seize lubricant. A seizure is not possible since the threads are nickel plated.

When tightening the spark plug the hex transfers the torque to sealing seat and thread. If by excessive torque or tilting the spark plug wrench the spark plug housing is tweaked, the insulator may come loose. Therefore, the torque may not exceed the value specified for plug and engine.
It is therefore appropriate to go with the following rules of thumb: insert spark plug into the cleaned thread and hand tighten until the gasket meets the cylinder head, and then put on the spark plug wrench.
Tighten new spark plug after the first rotation inhibition by a quarter turn. Already used spark plugs should only be tightened to the equivalent of about 5 minutes on a clock or an angle of about 30°.

When tightening or removing the spark plug the socket wrench must be held straight, otherwise the insulator is usually pushed away or pushed aside, and the spark plug becomes useless.
Over-tightening a spark plug may damage the thread in the cylinder head, a problem especially with aluminium heads; when the plug is not tightened enough heat conductances may be inadequate.

So use nothing.

"Now place the spark plug back into the spark plug socket, exposing the threads. At this point, it is advisable that you apply a very thin coat of copper anti-seize compound. Be sure to wipe off any excess anti-seize compound.

Using copper anti-seize compound on your spark plug is particularly advisable if your engine head is made of aluminum. It is not uncommon for dissimilar metals to cold-weld without proper precautions. Think of this as cheap insurance against costly head-work."

I use nothing as Manga BLue said.

I've not had any issues with plugs being stuck, just make sure to correctly torque them etc.

(In saying this, I change plugs every 6-12 months since they're so cheap)

Silvia wrote:
(Waits for Dann to say it's no good.......)

What magna blue said.

Dann

anti seize has been around forever. I know my local tyre repairer uses it for hub studs.

I don't see why you targeted Dann with your comment, as a lot of his knowledge he has passed onto you in the past few weeks with all the threads you create.

As Manga said, I use nothing. The coating is old school and obsolete with the newer technology.

I'm sounding like a Grinch, but one thing always raises an eyebrow with your questions...

You state that you've "...dríven numberless cars over the last 50 years..." and yet you ask the most basic of questions.

Is this the first car you've actually turned spanners on?

PS: and I too, and my mechanic, never used any anti-seize on spark plugs as they should never be torqued anywhere close to the threshold for any seizing or galling to occur.

Hjt wrote:I don't see why you targeted Dann with your comment, as a lot of his knowledge he has passed onto you in the past few weeks with all the threads you create.

As Manga said, I use nothing. The coating is old school and obsolete with the newer technology.

I don't create threads,I ask questions...pretty dull forum it would be without 'em.
and don't worry, even though he's a negative old thing,Dann knows a joke when he sees one...
It's obvious that you don't have to use anti seize. and that it has been "around forever"
The Question is, is it good to use it?
Jury still out.....