Changing the clutch question

[mitch_f1]

So I am currently having the debate of whether to attempt to swap the clutch and flywheel at home or to give it to someone and pay them to do it. I guess to help make up my mind I have just a few questions.

1) I think that my clutch may actually be fine; when parked with the handbrake firmly on, if I release the clutch with 3k rpm, it stalls. When going up a steep hill in second, if I put it into 4th, I get a shudder, and a rumbling noise from gearbox but the revs don't rise excessively. I have read somewhere that sometimes it is just an adjustment in the clutch pedal masquerading as a worn clutch, has anyone found this the case?
2) I have read the m.net guide several times, and have the blue workshop manual. The latter mentions the necessary use of a silicone lubricant on the rear main seal before installation, but the former does not. What kind of lubricant would need to be used here? What else needs to be lubricated/sealed when changing clutch/flywheel/rear main seal?
3) Of those who have done it at home, would you do it again, or give it to someone else? I guess the main reason which is stopping me from doing it at home is the fact that I don't have a hoist and I don't want to mess around with trying to remove the gearbox if I can't get enough room under the car?

Thanks for all your input and/or suggestions

[spikes]

Your clutch is fine, drive it till it breaks, then replace it with something like an exedy sports tuff.

Its definitely doable by yourself. just jack the car up onto jackstands. I dropped my gearbox out with my mechanic, which is also a family friend so he didn't charge me much at all to change the clutch. its a two person job dropping the tranny. one holds it up so it doesn't drop whilst the other undid the bolt.

we used a rattle gun and several extensions, real simple and straightforward although having access to a hoist does make life alot easier.

no silicone lube was used for the main seal, we just lubed up generously with oil and made sure the lips didn't fold as we installed it.

clean out your bell housing whilst your at it, it would also be a good opportunity to replace your gearbox seals whilst you have it off.

make sure you get your flywheel resurface or even better getting a lightened flywheel.

its a bitch of a job so just pace yourself and you'll be fine.

[zossy1]

+1

I use a light film of clean engine oil to seat my seals too. Works great. Be careful pulling the old ones out - it is easy to scratch the mating surface which can compromise the seal.

I hate doing this job without a hoist. Yes, it can be done. Yes, make sure you have a (good) friend and (lots of) beer on hand. Be patient. Make sure you can do without the car, and the place it is parked, for a day or two in case you can't (or don't want to) finish as soon as you expect.

A 1/2" breaker bar and some good quality extensions of various lengths, together with a good 12 point 17mm socket, should do thhe trick to get the gearbox bolts out. Your exhaust downpipe can be a pain if it is rusty. Spray with much inox, repeatedly, before you try to get the bolts out.

Don't handle the new clutch friction plate or pressure plate (or flywheel) with greasy hands.

Spray the pressure plate and flywheel (but not friction plate!) with carby cleaner and wipe off with clean paper towel to get the anti-rust lube off it before installing.

[93_Clubman]

I have read somewhere that sometimes it is just an adjustment in the clutch pedal masquerading as a worn clutch, has anyone found this the case?

Failing slave cylinder could also be an issue.

Three excellent clutch replacement threads here:
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=38313

[Hjt]

If you need a hand Mitch, after my exams are finished I'm willing to help. I don't have the knowledge but I do have a hoist!

[mitch_f1]

Thanks for the link 93_clubman, it is now book marked.

Thanks for the offer Hayden, we will talk about this next week at MB if the weather is fine.

Spikes, thanks for reassuring me that my clutch is fine. I guess I still want to replace it in the near future for 2 reasons; my RMS is pissing out oil, also I don't want to be stuck in Golburn/similar middle-of-nowhere place with a dead clutch...

I think I will probably just adjust the clutch pedal, and set a date to change it after the MX5 club day

[Charlie Brown]

I've just replaced mine on the NC while the G/B bush was being fixed.

I normally do all the work on my cars and have done clutch replacement myself previously on numerous cars but due to a lack of space at home and the G/B problem; I had Daniel Deckers do the work with me assisting where possible.

Daniel rates are VERY reasonable and I think it was the best decision I’ve made in a long while.
To break the grip of some nuts required a large breaker bar, something I didn’t have at home.
Then there was a bolt on the PPF that was burred and after removal of the nut, the nut needed to be tapped to get it to go back onto the bolt. Again I didn’t have the large tap that was needed.

The other advantage of using Daniel is that he’s an MX5 specialist so can do the work quickly and correctly.

All up it took around 4 and a bit hours, including fitting a new flywheel, the box repair and oil(s) change.

I’d suggest you save the grief and contact Daniel.