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I have one under the bench and was considering using it in a locost I am building, engine will be making 150KW, I know the 1.8 diff is stronger,
So the question is which bits break? crown wheel and pinion or the plantery and sun gears in the differental? or a combination of both?
If it is only the differential gears , has up grading to and aftermarket LSD helped?
I'm just looking at using up the stuff I already have, but if its not going to last I will just fork at the extra cash how , that way I will save on 2 custom tailshafts.
thanks

I have 4 dead ones in the shed.

Pinion bearings
Pinion bearings
Pinion bearings and

Pinion bearings

My friend john had his fixed for more than the cost of a replacement, it was...

Pinion bearings

And 'spikes' on here is due for a new diff soon, as it needs....

Pinion bearings...

Hope that helps

BTW it was the over run side that died every time.

Dann

I cracked the planetary gears on mine.

And my 1.8 diff has copped many 3rd gear on the limiter drops and plenty of drifting, and I have a 2 step and flat shifting that I use regularly.

And its fluid always comes looks great and metal free.

Dann

depends a lot on the weight you have to shift too.I'm assuming locost = loweight.
If you are substantially lighter than dann's car (Dann chip in with some weight and power/torque figures here),the little diff will probably last a lot longer than you think.I'm also assuming that a locost car will come in for more than a little "enthusiastic" driving so a little diff is probably eventually doomed anyway.
So it gets down to save money now,or spend more now and save later.
Mick

100 odd rwkw, sub 900 kg. 870 maybe.

I would say sell it while its still working and worth half a 1.8 setup. Ive seen 1.6 diffs sell for 350, and I bought my 4.1 torsen, driveshafts and tailshaft for 650 delivered to newcastle from sydney. And that doesnt mention the fact that the best 1.6 lsds are 95% open anyway, and even if it was perfect the torsen is so much better.

Dann

Wot dann said!if you're building the car it will just take 1 or 2 more overtime shifts lol,2 extra days!
Mick

Noobee you should come over next time theres 4 or 5 forum members at mine already? Theres was 4 here just 3 days ago.

We are all ages, im 21 but people like patrick bramston (40s i think ) so whether your 17 or 60 your welcome. If you want ill pm you next there will be a few here?

Dann

yeah,sounds good.but i'm working 12 hr shifts 7 days (i'm dogwatch now machining railway wheels) so dont get a lot of weekends like normal jobs.the rest of the time i'm usually buggered or just plain lazy.
Mick

its usually weekday afternoons. Ill pm anyhow, and hope to see you

Dann

thanks guy's for the replies, I'm aiming for a 550kg car, so it would probly last a little while , but it will be abused so I will go the 1.8 off the bat.

My clubbie weighs 480kg and with just 95HP at the flywheel I have broken 2 axles and 1 side gear on the original (Triumph/Standard) live axle and 2 axles and one side gear on the stronger A series Morris live axle. It is very quick off the line though Given there is not much difference in weight I would always fit the strongest diff available, so go the 1.8.

It doesn't take much to break a 1.6 diff.
In my case I upgraded the clutch & Tyres.
Wasn't even trying hard. That was with a huge 65
Go the 1.8. You will not regret it.
And with 150 rwkw.
A 4.1:1 diff will be a bit nicer too.


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pinion bearings, once it starts to make the raspy sound on deceleration, you know its on its way out. oh well, torsen soon

oh and btw, don't get a viscous, 15-20year old viscous would all be opens by now