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Has anyone used one of these units and what are their thoughts. They seem to be reasonably well priced but not if they are shoddy piece of kit!

Try Goggle, OBX LSD problems.

Make up your own mind after reading.

Terry

big bump. though from what ive read they are quite good. Though need a careful inspection before installation.. pity they dont do a 1.6 dif.. only the 1.8.

great write up here:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=101109

you are better off spending the extra 100-200 on a proven Torsen centre

I bought a car with one already installed, it was bought as a torsen from a fairly popular MX-5 specialist shop down south.

It seemed to be a lot tighter than a Mazda torsen, but it was really noisy even after being adjusted by a specialist.

If they were dirt cheap and it was for a track car, I'd buy another. Not for a street dríven car though.

Sage wrote:big bump. though from what ive read they are quite good. Though need a careful inspection before installation.. pity they dont do a 1.6 dif.. only the 1.8.

great write up here:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=101109

Sage, I have a new kaaz LSD centre that drops into the 1.6 housing. I've not advertised it yet but feel free to send me a pm if interested.


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I bought an OBX LSD had it professionally fitted and it lasted 1000ks .. then fell apart .. don't do it ... I now have a kaaz .. learn from my mistake..

I had one in my S1 Rx7 track car and raced it hard for over 2 years. There is a problem with the standard belleville washers being very fragile, and breaking often, some even came prebroken/cracked washers from the factory.
There was a good write up on them recommending replacing the washers and the main bolts with higher quality ones.
The site that i looked on was selling the washer/bolt kit for about $40 posted.
It also recommended cleaning up the machining burrs/etc to reduce wear on the gears.
It felt tighter than my current T1 TORSEN in my NA8.

chrons_rotary wrote:I had one in my S1 Rx7 track car and raced it hard for over 2 years. There is a problem with the standard belleville washers being very fragile, and breaking often, some even came prebroken/cracked washers from the factory.
There was a good write up on them recommending replacing the washers and the main bolts with higher quality ones.
The site that i looked on was selling the washer/bolt kit for about $40 posted.
It also recommended cleaning up the machining burrs/etc to reduce wear on the gears.
It felt tighter than my current T1 TORSEN in my NA8.

just want to point out Ken's car was a 13b turbo with button clutch and soft race rubber,run as hard as it would go every time.also he replaced the washer/bolt set etc before using it.
Mick

Buying one with some of my tax return, will clean it up and replace preload washers and bolts, will also Loctite bolts.

I've seen these diffs cop abuse in different platforms and it not worry them, they do need to be stripped, cleaned up, quality preload washes, and bolts replaced using Loctite, and set up by someone who knows what they are doing, setting it up correctly will make or break the diff no matter what brand.

The additional cost in prepping the diff is about $20 and a hour of hands on. (excluding R&R, bearing and stuff of course)

Way better than the standard torsen style of diff, and in my opinion better than a clutch pack.

For a street and track hack these jobbies are value for money, you could spend more and get a flashy JDM brand name (no extra performance gain) or keep the torsen (OK for street but IMO a compromise on the track)

The OBX is still a torsen, the JDM brand names I can think of are clutch plate type? KAAZ and OSGIKEN anyway...

timk wrote:The OBX is still a torsen

Yes but IMO the characteristics of it are better than the OEM one.

MLR wrote:Yes but IMO the characteristics of it are better than the OEM one.

Having owned a car with an OBX LSD I totally agree, but your statement about no extra performance gain with a KAAZ or OSGIKEN is a bit far fetched.

Please don't feel I am attacking your purchase choice, I don't think it is a bad decision!

Cheers

From my understanding a helical will be more reliable over the long run, and much more forgiving driving around town.

I suppose what I'm saying is if it was a dedicated track car then a clutch type may be better, but for a daily who sees sprints, khanas, and other wheel liftng fun stuff on a budget the helical is the way to go.

IMO anyway, and everyone knows what opinions are like, LOL.

Torsens don't work if you lift a wheel by their design...


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