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Hey all, I have a NB 2000 model, just got it back from the mechanic today as it was having some miss fire and overfueling issues, turns out the engine temp sensor was dead. I noticed on the way home however that my temp gauge was at the 3 quarter mark, compared to about on or just over the halfway mark where it normally sits. I am trying to figure out if it is operating at normal temp and i just giving an accurate reading now that it has a new sensor, or if its overheating because of something the mechanic hasn't done properly.

So anyone who has a stock NB can you tell me where abouts in the gauge yours generally sits? Can anyone tell me where in the gauge is too hot? Does anyone have any suggestions ideas of things to check?

Thanks everyone

The temp gauge is an "idiot" gauge in that it indicates cold when it's cold, about half way when in the "normal" temp range (don't know how wide that range is) and then hot when it's bloody hot.

Not sure if the NB ECU and temp gauge have the same sensor. However, if they do and if that sensor was replaced to rectify your mis-firing problem, maybe it's a suspect sensor.

from what I have seen halfway is the way these guages are set to read. You could have an overheating prob

Mine sits on the high side of half way.
My Scan Gauge http://www.scangauge.com.au/features/index.html
shows that the Idiot Gauge shows 'normal' from about 75 degrees to the real normal of 90 degrees.

Mine sits dead centre.

however my car spews coolant, so mine might not be the best judge

A touch over half way for me.

Later model landrovers have the same deal.

Temp guage indicates; Cold
Warm up
Operating temp
Oh S..t

Jish

There was also a thread regarding CAM sensors with similiar misfire and cut out symptoms I think .

Would it be possible to check the real temp or block /head temp with an infrared thermometer


Pete

Mine sits slightly below 12.

two40 wrote:A touch over half way for me.

+1

G'day all,
My temerature gauge has always sat at about "normal". However - the other day when I was driving through Sydney the car cut out because of overheating while the temp gauge was still at normal I let it cool down for a while then started off again. This time the temperature gauge went all the way to very hot and the car cut out again. Luckily, no major damage other than a radiator top tank needing replacement. Since the repair - a $700 job - the gauge still sits on normal all the time.
I don't trust the gauge and will be installing a more accurate gauge in the near future.
It is good to see that the ECU will actually cut out the engine if it gets too hot. Thank goodness because I could have had a cooked engine otherwise.

Mine sits to the left of 12 o'clock also.

djw24s wrote:G'day all,
Since the repair - a $700 job - the gauge still sits on normal all the time.

$700 ???!!!???!!! Did that invoice come with a free bottle of lube???!!!!???

I'm sorry to ask the obvious, but you do realise that for less than $400 you could have had a whole new radiator? I had the top tank replaced on my old radiator a few years ago and it cost me $200.

djw24s wrote:G'day all,
My temerature gauge has always sat at about "normal". However - the other day when I was driving through Sydney the car cut out because of overheating while the temp gauge was still at normal I let it cool down for a while then started off again. This time the temperature gauge went all the way to very hot and the car cut out again. Luckily, no major damage other than a radiator top tank needing replacement. Since the repair - a $700 job - the gauge still sits on normal all the time.
I don't trust the gauge and will be installing a more accurate gauge in the near future.
It is good to see that the ECU will actually cut out the engine if it gets too hot. Thank goodness because I could have had a cooked engine otherwise.

Unfortunately the same thing happened to me two weeks ago. Came to a set of lights to have it splutter and stall. Temp gauge was in it's usual 12 o'clock spot. It wasn't until a few minutes after I pulled over when it shot past the hot side.

Turns out I had a leak halfway down the radiator core. But yeah $700 is ridiculous. New radiator = $390 landed. New coolant + demin water + radiator flush ~ $75ish. Didn't change hoses though, they felt ok.

Edit: whoops i meant $290 landed.

labour costs at least $75 per hour so even $400 for a radiator crank up to $500 in a blink. The issue for radiators or any other major component is its quality. When you buy a radiator if it comes from one of the major OE makers eg Calsonic you can be fairly sure that it actually passes through a stringent quality system which sets out to produce an item with no defects and soundly engineered. What is the average life of an OE radiator?