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Why not transplant an Nb8B SVT engine in there.

Never heard of Jasma extractors.. Just get some new extractors (any brand) if you do a 1.8 swap.




I would say for the kind of thing you are thinking of a 1.8 Swap, good exhaust (2.5" was a nice gain on mine) (depending on how good it is already), CAI, and perhaps some mild cams (805c?) and somekind of management (megasquirt?) should do the trick, that would be enough power to be quite amusing I would say.

130rwkw is easilly obtainable on a n/a 1.8, so i guess 120 rwkw shouldn't be too much of a stretch on a 1.6. but we're talking fully worked engines, so it'll cost you an absolute bomb. for the same power figures, it'll be heaps cheaper to go the turbo route. my na6 has been dyno'd at 120.8 rwkw, totally stock standard engine with a readilly available turbo kit bolted to it.

do the sums........

greenmac80 wrote:hmmm well the entire exhaust had Jasma badges welded to it!

JASMA isn't a brand, it stands for Japanese Automobile Sports Muffler Association. It basically means your exhaust is certified for street use in Japan. Similar to when something is ADR approved here.

I personally wouldn't waste the money going N/A, you wont see much gain unless you spend big bucks. Even then doing a 1.8 swap, running big cams, irtb's, modified head, etc, will make it a bitch to drive on the road. Do yourself a favor and buy a turbo kit for the 1.6, Fatty is selling his AVO kit I think. It will cost ALOT less, make more power, and will be great fun to drive on the road.

greenmac80 wrote:so the 1.8 engine i know can be a tight squeeze but will fit. but... do any of the later 1.8's have vvt?? or anything like that?

Yes, 2001-on model NB8Bs have SVT.

also ITB's ? are these available or will a custom adaptor plate be required to fit another cars ITB's?

Fuji Racing in the U.S. still make bolt-on kits -> Fuji Racing IRTB. You will need an aftermarket piggy-back, plug-in (like the Wolf V500 - I am a dealer) or wire-in EMS to control everything. I have also used EFI Hardware (Melbourne Victoria - I am also a dealer) kits with an adaptor and they have been quite good. Just coincidentally, I know of a B6 head with IRTBs and some other goodies in the valvetrain for sale with only very little use as the owner is going to forced induction. I will ask for the details and price if you like (PM me).

and finally power?? anyone got links to or know personally what a good NA 1.8 build can achieve atw?

Well, Warwick aka Waz man on here got just over 120 rwkw or 160 rwhp on his NA8 which has high compression pistons and IRTBs with a Power FC. In fact, he is thinking of selling his entire 1.8 BP engine set up so if you like I could put him on to you (PM me).

also what do the 1.6's put out atw? from factory?
thanks, Luc

Most NA6s average around 65 rwkw or 87 rwhp in 4th gear on a Dyno Dynamics dynometer. For more information, see our club's dyno day results -> click here.

yep ok so they have vvt. erm ITB's??
any idea of atw kw from a worked one?

Yes, Fuji Racing (see above) do them. Have a chat with all the motorsport guys on this forum for outputs of a fully worked SVT BP.

also another silly question probably but the car has a full jasma exhaust extractors back possible to modify the na6 extractors to fit?
or are jasma 1.8 extractors easy to come by?

JASMA is Japan ASsociation of Automobile Muffler (they did not get the sequence right but you get the picture ). All Japanese manifolds & exhausts have to pass JASMA Q.C. standards.

anyone used the alloy crank pulley?

Caution here!!! Always use one with the proper harmonic balancer if you are not using an overlay pulley. I tend to stay away from all the ebay ones and find myself always using a genuine Mazda unit when I have had to change them. Be wary of a worn keyway on the crank for both the 1.6 and 1.8 engines as reported by other forum members.

megasquirt?? are these good with these engines? cos in toyota 4age20v's these are not so good. i was thinking more along the lines of microtech lt10's.

I must have said this a million times but basically, choose your tuner before you use choose your EMS. The megasquirt is basically a D.I.Y. unit so I would check the thread here on this forum.

we wanna go for ITB's for the induction symphony and tuning options.

I do like the sound but not sure what you mean by "tuning options" on a normally aspirated motor.

is an 120rwkw a bit much of a target?

For a 1.6 B6 engine, this is a pretty high figure. Not impossible but just getting to the 'top of the pile' here.

i would think that you could get 140rwkw outta a 1.8 but i could be wrong.

Again, possible.

lightened flywheel i'm not to sure about cos of the loss of momentum.
thoughts?

Well I presume all this talk is for a responsive high revving motor. However, what you are ultimately using it for has not been stated. Daily street dríven? Weekend track car only? Dedicated track car? Everything is about compromise so make the decision based on what you plan to do with the NA6 and enjoy it!

*EDIT*
As usual, I took so long to formulate my reply that others have already posted up some relevant answers...

honestly don't waste your money on na. having a worked motor with irtb will be more of a pain in the arse than the 'scary' turbo power. get a nice simply lightly boosted supercharger setup. it will drive like stock and make good power with stock head so it will be much more drivable on the road. either jackson racing or maybe even the new kraftwerks kit. nice a cheap - heaps of parts if you want to upgrade and will take a weekend to install as opposed to a few weeks to build a motor. just my 2c

Great reply mx52nv!
Great reading - has given me some food for thought for upgrades to mine

16bit wrote:honestly don't waste your money on na. having a worked motor with irtb will be more of a pain in the arse than the 'scary' turbo power.

geez, don't let mxhevn hear you say that...

oh wait, after months of spouting on about the miracles of n/a... he's decided to go the boring turbo route, too!

seriously tho... i'd agree with 16bit on the supercharger option, seeing as you're not chasing huge power and by the sounds of it you'd prefer the drivability / throttle response compared to turbo.

don't get caught up chasing the power only.

the MX-5 was built on the principle of lightweight good handling. the best mods you can do to your car would be, intake and exhaust, engine management with a good tune, a quality set of adjustable swaybars and a set of coilovers, (TIENs are your best option there).

if your prepared to spend the money and time though get yourself an NB8B motor, a set of CP high comp pistons with carillo A beam conrods, if its done properly theres no reason why you cant be pushing up around the 130-150 rwkw

little decks wrote:don't get caught up chasing the power only.

the MX-5 was built on the principle of lightweight good handling. the best mods you can do to your car would be, intake and exhaust, engine management with a good tune, a quality set of adjustable swaybars and a set of coilovers, (TIENs are your best option there).

if your prepared to spend the money and time though get yourself an NB8B motor, a set of CP high comp pistons with carillo A beam conrods, if its done properly theres no reason why you cant be pushing up around the 130-150 rwkw

Dunno about 150kw - 130kw might be more realistic i suspect - you'd have to be pushing a lot of revs to get 150kw, And i don't think it would be very streetable.

Talk to CT about this, he really seems to know his stuff.

Also carillo rods are not that cheap, so if you are on a tighter budget you might want those belfab rods or see how you go with stockers

With the description of how you will be using the car, then i agree n/a is the way to go and i am reverting to n/a because of this as well.

altho if you're worried about legalities i beleive you have just as much trouble getting irtb's road legal as you will with a turbo. from what i've heard anyway.

If you can't run an aftermarket ECU forget itb's,

My car had itb's when Slammer had it along with extractors, microtech ecu, lightened flywheel ( possibly THE best mod you can do )
272 cams ?? and adjustable gears, it pulled 88rwkw, so I don't know how you expect to get 120rwkw without spending lot$$$

You best bet would be to get a decent wheel alignment, tyres and possibly suspension and learn how to get the most from you car first before spending mega dollars.

Not trying to put a damper on your ideas but plenty on this forum have spent mega dollars and ended up with a car that not fun anymore.


Just my 2c worth

Terry

My NA6 got the 1.8 conversion from a previous owner. With stock headers, 2 1/4" exhaust, enlarged intake cross pipe, a bigger airbox and a standalone ecu, I saw 90kw atw. From talking to a few people in the states, some figured I could probably crack 100 with itbs and a tune, other said cams would be needed too. Either way, I can't see you cracking 110 without some big dollars.

I know its already been said, but you won't get itbs running well on a stock ecu, and you will probably have almost as much trouble getting them legal. As for running a turbo on a stock ecu, I understand that it can cope with about 2 pounds. ie, useful when you're going for your engineering certificate then the proper aftermarket ecu/piggy back goes back in once you're home.

What ecu do you have Jeo?

Autronic SM4