mx5cartalk.com

So, my brass button clutch on my NB8B is slipping badly.

I never really liked the brass button- No idea why the previous owner ever put the bloody thing on- not like it has bulk horsepowere to deal with

I've done a search and not found a topic really covering the issue.

So, what are peoples thoughts/recommendations?

I do a bit of track work. Probably %30 track and %70 street- due mainly to catching the bus to work each day.

Organic or twin plate?

Brands?

What price should I be paying?

Is this a job I can do with a mechanic mate in my garage? Will I be saving the grief to pay someone else to put it in?

Can I just get the brass button repaired?

Cheers

Monza

I was charged 271 for a OEM Mazda clutch and was offered 371 for an Exedy performance clutch. Labour will be about the 150 - 250.

NB with a brass button clutch

Gives us some more details. If it is the standard NB (not an SE or SP) then the standard clutch will be fine.

What concerns me is that if your brass button is slipping, your flywheel is probably gone.

Even at the track my heavy duty organic has not slipped, but hard launches will slip (mind you, that is with a turbo).

If yours is the atmo engine a heavy duty clutch will be fine (geez brass button will be a pain)

Monza02 wrote:I do a bit of track work. Probably %30 track and %70 street- due mainly to catching the bus to work each day. So, what are peoples thoughts/recommendations?

Either get your local clutch specialist to make one up for your application or get a Heavy Duty clutch from any brand (Exedy/Extreme/Toda/etc) and possible a lightened flywheel to suit.

Organic or twin plate?

Organic if you are complaining about a brass button. Twin pate if you pushing serious horsepower (i.e. 200 rwkw) or you are really hard on your car (launches, etc) or both.

Brands?

Exedy, Extreme, Toda Racing, OS Giken or custom built. This is not the say all and end all of brands, just a common list of aftermarket ones.

What price should I be paying?

Hmm this is a tough one as each brand has a range (esp Exedy). I would say that you would be starting around $350+ for a Exedy HD clutch and topping out at just over $2,000 for an OS Giken twin plate.

Is this a job I can do with a mechanic mate in my garage? Will I be saving the grief to pay someone else to put it in?

Well the use of a hoist & transmission jack makes things so much easier and faster IMHO. So decide based on your budget (more if you pay someone) and time (less if you have access to a hoist).

Can I just get the brass button repaired?

Hmm you need to find out the costs of a replacement button clutch disc (there is the normal and cushion version) and then compare that to a new clutch. Also if the clutch disc has slipped then chances are there could be damage to the flywheel as well. Check to see if the flywheel can be machined or if budget allows, replace with a lightweight yet strong flywheel.

Hope this helps

ampz wrote:NB with a brass button clutch

Gives us some more details. If it is the standard NB (not an SE or SP) then the standard clutch will be fine.

What concerns me is that if your brass button is slipping, your flywheel is probably gone.

Even at the track my heavy duty organic has not slipped, but hard launches will slip (mind you, that is with a turbo).

If yours is the atmo engine a heavy duty clutch will be fine (geez brass button will be a pain)

It was an SP but is no longer

it is balanced and blueprinted (apparantly) so probably putting out another kw or two.

The clutch has obviously copped a thrashing, having done 6 targa tassies.

Anyway, I hate the thing- makes it a c**t to drive

Monza02 wrote:It was an SP but is no longer

Are you in WA (update your location please)?
If you are, PM me and I can give you places to go who know about clutches for MX5s.
Since you have a normally aspirated NB8, I suggest getting a normal Heavy Duty clutch from any of the brands or get a custom one built to suit as it will be much easier to drive.

updated- lost my first login on the changeover

After 55K on the original clutch, and getting sick of the shuddering, I just got an SE clutch fitted, and it works a treat.
Nice and light, no shuddering and holds up with the 200 odd RWkW my modified SP produces.

I've had cars with fancy clutches, and many of them are a real pain to live with, so I just went to the SE clutch and it seems to be going very well indeed.

prince of liteness wrote:Sorry nube question:

If I install a super beefy clutch that can hold 200 kw onto a stock car will it put stress on and wearout other components drive shaft etc etc?

Thinking of installing beefy clutch just incase in the future I get an SC, but I will have to live with stock for a little while before that happens.

A beefy clutch shouldn't make any dofference to other parts of the drivetrain, but it will make a difference to your left leg and your smoothness is bumper to bumper traffic.

The SE clutch I have in my SP seems able to take anything I throw at it including around 200RWkW.

yup. The only way you will cause grief to the other components is if you apply a larger amount of force in a shorter amount of time than before. Eg: If before, the clutch slips a little before full engagement, but now it bites really hard, it could place strain on your gearbox, etc.

Thanks for all that

so..... pulled out the old clutch and found this



hope that works

Flywheel needs machining

I take it from your Exedy clutch FS post you're reverting the NA SP back to FI?

yup- the process has commenced.

Looking at AVO/Adaptronic bundle if anyone has any feedback on this?

Cant validate the FM/Begi route now with the dollar. Also like to have local support and from what I am reading the adaptronic shits over the Excede.

p.s. how flocked is that clutch

is your car "officially" an SP? does it have an SP ecu ? it might be better to get an SP manifold / turbo etc rather than aftermarket gear... would save a lot of hassles with engineering , making it legal etc.... ?