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Ok... My extractors have arrived, I was wondering if anyone had any advice regarding DIY fitment from extractors to tip?

From what I find so far... I know it's a 2 person job... but... can this be done (should?) by someone who's... relatively skilled in at least undoing and doing up screws? I regard myself as a novice DIY warrior so I know I'm keen at least... Or highly recommended to take it to someone to fit?

(I have most of the tools... and have facilities (chassis stands) to jack it up and keep it up in the air)

Any advice is appreciated!

An easy job! (I'm assuming this is an NA6)

You can now expand you skillset and earn you \"rachet and socket wings\"

I've done it a few times by myself, although someone helpful with a mechanical mind that doesnt mind getting dirty never goes astray.

A few quick tips...

Definitely jack her up on stands

Get some WD40, RP7 or similar and soak all associated studs and bolts the night before you plan to do it.

Get some never-seez and put on the exhaust manifold studs and other bolts if you want, not neccessary but makes it easier to get it off later if you need to.

Wear some safety specs when working under the car. Theres some nasty grit and cr@p under there!

If you have stock headers on may need to get the passenger side wheel off to get through to a bracket via the wheel arch. (You'll need some sockets with extensions)

IMO start from the back and work your way forward

Take the header and front pipe out together. ie the section forward of the cat.

Spray a little WD40 on the hangers.. makes them easier to slide out.

Be careful with the wire attached to oxygen sens when removing it.

Get dirty and have fun!

Satisfaction Guaranteed!
and your wallet will love you for it!

L.

Sorry... that should be from engine to tip... or err... that's... changing the extractors and everything backwards

Thanks for the tips luke! mine is an NA8 though... would there be much difference?

It's as easy as Luke stated. Soaking it overnight in WD-40 or lanolin spray is a great tip.

Make sure you buy replacement gaskets and gasket goo, but you already know that right? .

So you bought brand new extractors and pipes? If not, then clean the joining surfaces thoroughly with a razor or box-cutter blade, and sand paper.

If you need to buy new nuts, make sure the manifold nuts are LOCKING nuts, and not regular nuts, or else they'll just start undoing themselves.
I would use locking nuts on the rest of the exhaust too.

Also you're finished, when your extractors heat up the metal changes colour.
To get a an unblemished colour/look (ie no greasy finger prints) you need to clean the extractors well.
Someone told me to use windex(?) and clean rags, but i suppose degreaser would work as well....

What do you mean namster?
ie the first time I drive after I install it should discolour? Does that mean somethings gone wrong if it doesn't?

re 1red5: gasket goo? that's the first I've heard of that...
please explain?

PUR157 wrote:What do you mean namster?
ie the first time I drive after I install it should discolour? Does that mean somethings gone wrong if it doesn't?

re 1red5: gasket goo? that's the first I've heard of that...
please explain?

with the discolouring, its the way the metal reacts with heaps of heat, it will do it over time if not straight away.

gasket goo is like a liquid/sticky head gasket in a sence, i have never used it myself but i have heard it does a good job

oh yeah, exhaust shouldnt be too hard at all, dont pay someone to do it!

PUR157 wrote:re 1red5: gasket goo? that's the first I've heard of that...
please explain?

with the discolouring, its the way the metal reacts with heaps of heat, it will do it over time if not straight away.

gasket goo is like a liquid/sticky head gasket in a sence, i have never used it myself but i have heard it does a good job[/quote]

What he said
You put it on both sides of the gasket to ensure a secure, airtight seal. If you get a quality goo from Loctite or Permatex you "can" use it by itself as a gasket, but that is rather dodgy in my opinion.
It's pretty obvious when you go and buy it, but make sure you buy high-heat goo.
it's not crucial that you use it, but for $10-$15.....

Ah yeah... studying to be an engineer so I know all about the discolouration from heat cycling... just wondering whether or not it was a vital part of the install procedure is all

Thanks for the advice guys!
Can't wait to give it a crack when I have some downtime!

The one thing that I learned a long time ago is avoid exhaust repairs and fitting. The exhaust shops are imho efficient quick and bend pipe and make fittings which you cannot do at home. You need easy access and you might need heat etc. When you get it back it will be right or they fix it for you. Diy and you might be visiting the underside of your car more than you care for.