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Even though I was a little reluctant cause I know a couple of people who had detonation, I thought I would try it anyways. You never really know till you try right?

Not sure if it added high-RPM power cause I couldn't really feel it (it probably does), but boy-howdy!..... it gave my NA8 a definitely noticeable extra punch at low and mid range.

I've covered more than 400km now with 14deg BTDC, and after some serious uphill gradients in the recent Gold Coast brekky run, I am a believer.

i would suggest running 95ron as a minimum & 98ron as preferred when you do this Andrew

AJ wrote:i would suggest running 95ron as a minimum & 98ron as preferred when you do this Andrew

Done mac-daddy.
I've always used Caltex Vortex Premium (95RON) anyways, which I had 3/4 of a tank when I advanced it, and I bought an octane booster to top it up just in case.
I'll be using Caltex Vortex 98 from now on.

Yep, it's a great free mod.

Jules

jules wrote:Yep, it's a great free mod.

Jules

How do you do it on a NA6 engine?

I always run 98 RON but my mechanic said we should advance the timing.

Basically: [you should have another person to help you]
1) make sure car is warmed up to operating temperature. At least 5 minutes idling should be sufficient.
2) use a timing light to check what the current timing is. If it's standard then it should be 10 deg BTDC
3) turn off engine
4) use a piece of wire to jump terminals \"TEN\" and \"GND\" in the diagnostic box located near the strut-top on the exhaust side of the engine bay
5) turn on engine at let it idle for a minute
6) undo the cam angle sensor bolt at the back of the engine. On the NA6 this bolt should be to the left of the CAS as you look at it from the front.
7) get someone to point the timing light on the marks as you slowly turn the CAS. Not sure which way you turn it, but it will be audible. If you turn it one way and the engine starts sounding rough, then you are retarding it, if it sounds smoother then you are advancing it. Confirm with the person holding the timing light and checking the marks
turn the CAS until the marks hover around 15-14 deg BTDC.
9) tighten the CAS bolt
10) remove the jumper wire from the connectors and check that base timing has remained at around 14-15 BTDC.

And voila! you're done.

oh by the way, the timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley and there's a tab where it has gradations on the exhaust-side of the crank pulley.

The gradations has a \"10\" and a \"T\".
Advancing the timing will move the two marks on the crank pulley to the left of the 10 and T.
Each gradation denote 2 degrees, in other words:
- standard timing of 10deg BTDC will have the marks lined up with the \"10\" and \"T\"
- advancing it 14deg BTDC will move the two marks 2 notches to the left of the \"10\" and \"T\"

Thanks heaps

Something to keep in mind when doing this great, free mod. There is a good chance that the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) 'O' ring will start to leak when you twist the CAS to adjust the timing. This will cause oil to drip down the back of the engine, which can affect the small rubber coolant hose seal at the back of the engine. If left long enough the rubber seal will let go and you will lose coolant.

J

Yeah, good point. Get a $2.50 \"O\" ring while your at it.

Jules

Yup good tip Juffa. Oh and Jules, genuine Mazda CAS seal is over $10

It doesn't have to be 14 degrees either. Each car likes it a bit different. Some cars, especially NA6's, will run quite well on 16 degrees, on my late model NA8 12 degrees gave the best balance of improved low end pull and revability. Dont be affraid to have a bit of a play around. But keep an ear out for the dreaded ping and you probably dont want to go much higher than 16 degrees.

What timing advance does the NA6 run as standard?

From the factory, the CAS is set for 10 degrees when in TEN mode.

1red5 wrote:Yup good tip Juffa. Oh and Jules, genuine Mazda CAS seal is over $10

Yes it would be

Jules