mx5cartalk.com

Hey All,
I am currently looking to buy an engine to build up for my MX5.
The car is already turbo but I am looking to do a build up with forged pistons, rods and all the other good bits. What is the best engine to base this build up on.
I understand the later engines have a different angle to the inlet ports?
Is there any interchangeability between the Mazda bottom ends to get up to 2L capacity?
The engine will be going in my 94 Clubman.
Thanks
Jake

http://www.flyinmiata.com/enginebuilder/index.php?option=1

Just start ticking boxes.

Pupat,
I have seen the FM link. Would love to have the bank balance to support that option but unfortuneately I don't.
I also really enjoy building engines.
I am more interested in the benefits of the later model head (99 0n?) and if it is worth the expense?
Also are there any differences in the block castings?
Is there a preferred block for big boost?
I would love some more capacity ibut doubt the budget will stretch to a stroker kit.
Jake

Just overbore the block a little then.

You can get to 1915 cc using FM forged pistons. After much research I settled on a low klm 1.8 without VVT but with the later head design (NB8A).

All the other good bits gets expensive, my bill so far is 10k so be prepared to put a few $$$$'s into it.

Woo,
That must be some engine you have there. 1915cc sounds like a good combination without the expense of a stroker. What rods are you running?

I know it is not going to be cheap. Can't have reliable and fast without spending the $$$$.

Where did you get your motor from?

Jake

Argo rods, should be good for 450 kW at the fly
The block and head machining is where a big chunk of the money is going. Having said that a good port job (90%) will only set you back $800-1200 whereas to get the extra 10% it's another $800.
Knife edged nitided crank $1100
Wiseco forgies $700
Comp Head gasket & belt $350
Plus all the usual stuff like fidanza, exedy, ACL bearings, ARP studs, steel rings, NOx, extrudahone manifolds and gaskets etc

The block came from one of Dicks (OBE) write offs. It had only done 7000 k's and was barely run in.
Just be careful when choosing an NB motor as quite a few suffer from crank end float (which is actually the cause of the clutch problems NB's sometimes have), if you need more info on how to test a block just ask.

I'm sure you can build cheaper than this jet. However I'm looking at at least 380 kW atw hence the big $$$$

Wòó

i hear the NB8B bottom end is a tad more robust than the NB8A bottom end. anyone else able to expand on this??
if thats the case i guess idealy an SE motor would be the No.1 block but if possible a NB8B bottom end and a NB8A topend might be the same deal?? the only reason i would do that would be to get rid of the VT on the latter models.. but there are plenty of SP's out there going fine so i supose its no biggie... just look at the SP race cars

Yes it has the main bearing support plate.



You can use 2 of these and mod them to make one super strong unit that also bolts to the middle bearing cap.

You will also need to replace the middle main bearing cap with a threaded one from another engine so that your modded support plate will bolt in.

When I remember which site had the \"how to\" on it i'll add the link.

I thought it was Keith's www.targamiata.com but I can't find it on there.

Okibi wrote:Yes it has the main bearing support plate.
You will also need to replace the middle main bearing cap with a threaded one from another engine so that your modded support plate will bolt in.

another thing to consider would be some baffelling in the sump or around the oil pick up..

dan and dav from mania the other day were talking about fuel surge issues on turn one at eastern creek the other day.. and dan pointed out it if the fuel pump pick up is being starved then its also possible the oil pickup could be too.. but i guess a tad less likly.. but worth thinking about im sure

Yeah, Wheelspin used a sexy surge tank for Simon's SE, I think Ian's and Les's cars run them too.