Them's the BRAKES.....

ASE05 · Postby **ASE05** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:57 pm

I've warped my discs after a couple of track days. They're AOK around town but on the track or hard braking on the street there's a definate shudder coming through the wheel(it's not the ABS). It's not the 1st time I've warped discs so I'm pretty sure that's what it is(1st time on the MX though :oops:

). I must remember not to drive like I'm in a Woollies carpark and ride the brakes from now on :idea:

My question is what to upgrade(not just replace) with?

ASE05 · Postby **ASE05** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:05 pm

Good read, thanks for that Steve!

I guess I should just ask what is a good upgrade? It's not a daily driver but I still need it to work on the street but I am looking for better braking on the track than thestandard pads/discs can offer.

rhysk · Postby **rhysk** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:29 pm

Upgrading is an expensive hassle. I'd consider just replacing the discs when they go bad, or using a second set of discs for the track.

Remember to take it easy on the in lap, and don't use the handbrake or hold your foot on the brake once you get in the pits.

The pads I use in my car necessitate replacing discs more pads, but fortunately the discs are cheaper and just as quick to replace.

Rhys

CT · Postby CT » Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:20 pm

So, how serious are you about an upgrade?

1. The absolute first thing I would do is get some DBA series 4000 slotted (not drilled) rotors. They are designed for higher temp operation. Mate them with decent track oriented pads and see how you go.

2. Goodwin big brake kit - 4 wheel kit: Uses wilwood 4 spots on the front with larger rotors and aluminium hats. $2200 which s excellent value

3. Brembo GT sports front only kit with larger rotors and 4 spot calipers $3800

4. AP Racing 5000 series 4 pot rotors from series 2 lotus exige with 290mm DBA 5000 series rotors and custom made dogbone brackets ~$3500 - front only kit. Would mate well with a Goodwin rear only kit with aluminium hatted rotors and caliper spacer.

5. Need more.....Brian has six pot outlaws on the front of his race car, AP and Wilwood also do them, alcon also do 4 and 6 pots - your wallet is the only limit.

kitkat · Postby **kitkat** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:43 pm

while were on the subject of brakes...

when i decide (can afford) to upgrade the brakes... should i just get slotted rotors or get the slotted & drilled rotors?

ASE05 · Postby **ASE05** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 2:05 pm

CT wrote: 2. Goodwin big brake kit - 4 wheel kit: Uses wilwood 4 spots on the front with larger rotors and aluminium hats. $2200 which s excellent value

CT, that was kinda what I've been leaning towrds but I'm still not sure if this set up would be OK for the street too and would it give a substantial gain over what could be achieved with just rotors/pads/fluid?

They look great too! The car is gonna be a project over several years so I guess I'd like to do it once and make it worth while.

ASE05 · Postby **ASE05** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 2:11 pm

rhysk wrote: The pads I use in my car necessitate replacing discs more pads, but fortunately the discs are cheaper and just as quick to replace. Rhys

Curious about what pad/rotor combo your using and how ya find it?

CT · Postby CT » Thu Aug 03, 2006 5:18 pm

kitkat wrote:while were on the subject of brakes...

when i decide (can afford) to upgrade the brakes... should i just get slotted rotors or get the slotted & drilled rotors?

Slotted only - drilled are for bling not performance.

ASE05 - fine on the street - remember pad compound is the thing that makes brakes streetable or trackable. The 4 spots give better clamping and less caliper flex are are sized appropriately. However, if you try track pads, 4000 series rotors, master cylinder brace, braided lines and decent fluid with the stock rotor/caliper combo and are still not happy, then I'd go for goodwin kit. It is good value. Two of the SP replica race cars down here run them with race spec pads and they seem OK. My preference is either option 1 or when you are really serious, option 4 or 5.

I general, if you are getting premature wear on either rotors or pads, they are not working in the correct temperature zone they were designed for. A very good tool is heat paint which tells you exactly what temp they are working at. My rotors operate around 420degC during a race and we selected pads what work in that zone. When we had higher spec pads in it, it just didn't work as well and the rotors were copping a hiding.