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I'm not sure which engines will fit apart from those of the same block family. I would advise that you get an NA8 to start with though - many features/improvements over the NA6.

I did a BP-T conversion on a NA6 and I had no troubles with the intercooler piping...

If you are going to do a BP-T though definitely get an NA8. It is a pain to chase up all the RWD engine parts that would bolt straight over from a NA8. Plus you have the stronger driveline which helps alot...

It'll be worth the wait

bpt4w wrote:what sort of mods did the na8 get over the na6 im not up to date with what extras they got.

Bigger engine capacity
More chassis bracing
Bigger brakes
Much stronger rear end
Wider wheels

Hangon, what are you using the BPT for? I'm just asking as I want to make sure you want it for the block and not because it's a turbocharged BP - you can't use the IC pipes, the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold - so all you're getting is the BP-1 block and BP26 head. The sodium-filled exhaust valves are only on the GTR engines - and if you can find or even afford a GTR engine, then there are cheaper and better ways of getting sodium-filled exhaust valves and 8.2:1 pistons.

If you're putting a BPT into an NA6, then I hope you have 1.8L engine bits handy. You'll need em. BPTs are FWD and BPs are RWD - so mounts, the CAS, manifolds, sump, oil pump and other gear are all different.

They're standard BPs. Arguably the SE is beefier in some way but I'm yet to see how.

I mentioned GTRs because they have the sodium-filled valves - which is the only reason besides lower compression pistons that I can see for using a BPT over a BP when you're going to toss half the bits anyway!

Ahh okay. Yeah, still definitely classed as BP engines. I actually put a Familia engine into my MX-5 (follow the Workshop link in my sig). All I used was the block, head (both unopened), alternator and a few other bits and pieces. I ended up selling the rest off, or binning it.

hi, sabretooth i looked at your ride (nice) but in your description it says you are running 10 psi without intercooler. is this true? also i cant seem to pick up a BOV in your under the hood pic. i was under the impression that you have to have one unless you have a internal one?

There's both a BOV and an intercooler there. I only bumped up the boost once I got the intercooler setup done.

You don't have to run a BOV. It's only function is to prevent compressor surge, which is caused when compressed air between the turbo and throttle body gets sent back out through the turbo, due to the butterfly on the throttle body being closed suddenly on releasing the throttle and having nowhere else to go.

DanielB wrote:You don't have to run a BOV. It's only function is to prevent compressor surge, which is caused when compressed air between the turbo and throttle body gets sent back out through the turbo, due to the butterfly on the throttle body being closed suddenly on releasing the throttle and having nowhere else to go.

yep but isnt that bad for the turbo?

DanielB wrote:It's only function is to prevent compressor surge, which is caused when compressed air between the turbo and throttle body gets sent back out through the turbo, due to the butterfly on the throttle body being closed suddenly on releasing the throttle and having nowhere else to go.

It can also sound fully sik bro

glen73 wrote:

DanielB wrote:You don't have to run a BOV. It's only function is to prevent compressor surge, which is caused when compressed air between the turbo and throttle body gets sent back out through the turbo, due to the butterfly on the throttle body being closed suddenly on releasing the throttle and having nowhere else to go.

yep but isnt that bad for the turbo?

which is why you "should" have a BOV...

but you don't -need- to run one.

More relevant to a Manual too as a BOV means the compressor is not slowed down during gear changes (in an auto it doesn't matter because the engine is constantly working)