Advanced timing for the NA6

Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers

Moderators: timk, Stu, -alex, miata, StanTheMan, greenMachine, ManiacLachy, Daffy, zombie, Andrew, The American, Lokiel

muzza2
Racing Driver
Posts: 502
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 9:10 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Brisbane
Contact:

Postby muzza2 » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:14 am

not talking from experience,
but you should be able to advance the timing on ur NA
just take it to a dyno place and they'll just thinker with ur computer and running gears
maybe an hours work?

but i might be wrong...

User avatar
PT
Racing Driver
Posts: 1188
Joined: Sat May 21, 2005 7:11 pm
Vehicle: NB8B
Location: Brisbane
Contact:

Postby PT » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:18 am

It's a 2 minute job with a timing light.

Problems can be pinging or detonation however highly unlikely if you run good fuel.

93ron should still be ok at 15deg BTDC
2001 Mazda MX-5 NB8B- http://www.mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=61506

Past:
2005 Mazda MX-5 SE
1991 Mazda MX-5 NA6

Richee
Racing Driver
Posts: 591
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:17 am
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Brisbane - Westside

Postby Richee » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:23 am

I had Mazda advance my timing during a regular service, no extra charge.

It felt like I had a bit more power :D, thats Dyno by seat of the pants

You need higher Octane fuel or it may Ping, I use BP Ultimate the extra cost is covered by the better fuel economy and the feeling that I am doing something nice for the environment (sort of). I just got 8.1 l/100 km from the last tank, before it was around 9.5 - 10.

There have been a few threads on this subject

Richard
Mazda Tribute - its a boat
Coming - Jayco Eagle wind up camper - woo hoo
Ex cars 2007 NC LE Radiant Ebony, 1990 Eunos Neo Green LE

User avatar
JBT
Speed Racer
Posts: 7946
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NC
Location: Brisbane

Postby JBT » Thu Apr 20, 2006 9:22 am

It's a ten minute job. Warm up engine first.

1. Locate timing mark on crankshaft pulley and put some white chalk or white out on it if necessary
2. loosen CAS
3. jumper TEN and GND ports in diagnostic box and connect timing light
4. start engine
5. set correct idle speed
6. observe timing using timing light
7. move CAS to achieve desired timing
8. reclamp CAS
9. check timing again
10. reset idle speed if required
11. remove jumper wire from diagnostics box and disconnect timing light.

Road test car and use higher octane fuel if timing advanced above 10 degrees.
Image

User avatar
Astroboysoup
Racing Driver
Posts: 825
Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 1:06 am
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Contact:

Postby Astroboysoup » Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:03 am

yeh its a very easy job

when moving the Cam Angle Sensor, only move it a few mm at a time. You don't need to move it much at all.

I tuned it while i was running 98, the car doesn't like anything less than that now. I get power hesitation and i think it was starting to ping with regular 95 octane.
AustCars.net - It's like Facebook but for cars!

User avatar
maxwolfie
Racing Driver
Posts: 867
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 6:22 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Western Sydney, NSW
Contact:

Re:

Postby maxwolfie » Thu Apr 20, 2006 4:37 pm

Astroboysoup wrote:yeh its a very easy job

when moving the Cam Angle Sensor, only move it a few mm at a time. You don't need to move it much at all.

I tuned it while i was running 98, the car doesn't like anything less than that now. I get power hesitation and i think it was starting to ping with regular 95 octane.



So whats it running at now?/ (Deg btdc)
'89 JDM NA6 (black)
2" s/s ex., 4-2-1 extractors, high flow cat, RX-7 AFM + pod, lightened fly, h/d clutch, 2 way lsd, slotted rtrs, Racing beat type II front bar, Speedy 17" wheels

User avatar
jules
Guitar Hero
Posts: 3562
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Sydney, previously HQ - GC Dodgy Inc.
Contact:

Postby jules » Thu Apr 20, 2006 4:39 pm

It's hard to bugger it up. You shouldn't hurt your car at all (unless you advance it too far).

Jules
Founder of the Gold Coast Chapter of the Honourable Brothers of Dodgy.
Image

User avatar
Astroboysoup
Racing Driver
Posts: 825
Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 1:06 am
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Contact:

Re:

Postby Astroboysoup » Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:08 pm

maxwolfie wrote:So whats it running at now?/ (Deg btdc)


15 degrees

might turn it back down... don't really neeeed that extra power and fuel costs.
AustCars.net - It's like Facebook but for cars!

User avatar
StanTheMan
Forum legend
Posts: 6824
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Balgowlah

Postby StanTheMan » Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:16 pm

stop being a tight arse just drive it & enjoy it. I found it more fuel efficient
Satans Ride called F33nix the resurrected NA6

User avatar
SuperMazdaKart
Racing Driver
Posts: 1980
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 9:10 pm
Vehicle: ND - 2 GT
Location: Adelaide

Postby SuperMazdaKart » Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:36 pm

any comments with summer driving using the stock intake system? i spose the Lochie intake would considerably help against pinging?
Image

User avatar
Okibi
Speed Racer
Posts: 10906
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 11:00 am
Vehicle: NB SE
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Contact:

Re:

Postby Okibi » Sat Apr 29, 2006 3:53 pm

muzza2 wrote:..just take it to a dyno place and they'll just thinker with ur computer and running gear maybe an hours work?

but i might be wrong...


Woah, Dyno tuners are VERY expensive! If not they probably aren't that good.

Any mechanice should be able to do it, but follow JBT's advice and learn to do it yourself. (That way if you advance it too far you'll be able to quickly return it to normal).
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.


Return to “MX5 Engines, Transmission & Final Drive”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests