not talking from experience,
but you should be able to advance the timing on ur NA
just take it to a dyno place and they'll just thinker with ur computer and running gears
maybe an hours work?
but i might be wrong...
Advanced timing for the NA6
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It's a 2 minute job with a timing light.
Problems can be pinging or detonation however highly unlikely if you run good fuel.
93ron should still be ok at 15deg BTDC
Problems can be pinging or detonation however highly unlikely if you run good fuel.
93ron should still be ok at 15deg BTDC
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I had Mazda advance my timing during a regular service, no extra charge.
It felt like I had a bit more power
, thats Dyno by seat of the pants
You need higher Octane fuel or it may Ping, I use BP Ultimate the extra cost is covered by the better fuel economy and the feeling that I am doing something nice for the environment (sort of). I just got 8.1 l/100 km from the last tank, before it was around 9.5 - 10.
There have been a few threads on this subject
Richard
It felt like I had a bit more power

You need higher Octane fuel or it may Ping, I use BP Ultimate the extra cost is covered by the better fuel economy and the feeling that I am doing something nice for the environment (sort of). I just got 8.1 l/100 km from the last tank, before it was around 9.5 - 10.
There have been a few threads on this subject
Richard
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It's a ten minute job. Warm up engine first.
1. Locate timing mark on crankshaft pulley and put some white chalk or white out on it if necessary
2. loosen CAS
3. jumper TEN and GND ports in diagnostic box and connect timing light
4. start engine
5. set correct idle speed
6. observe timing using timing light
7. move CAS to achieve desired timing
8. reclamp CAS
9. check timing again
10. reset idle speed if required
11. remove jumper wire from diagnostics box and disconnect timing light.
Road test car and use higher octane fuel if timing advanced above 10 degrees.
1. Locate timing mark on crankshaft pulley and put some white chalk or white out on it if necessary
2. loosen CAS
3. jumper TEN and GND ports in diagnostic box and connect timing light
4. start engine
5. set correct idle speed
6. observe timing using timing light
7. move CAS to achieve desired timing
8. reclamp CAS
9. check timing again
10. reset idle speed if required
11. remove jumper wire from diagnostics box and disconnect timing light.
Road test car and use higher octane fuel if timing advanced above 10 degrees.

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yeh its a very easy job
when moving the Cam Angle Sensor, only move it a few mm at a time. You don't need to move it much at all.
I tuned it while i was running 98, the car doesn't like anything less than that now. I get power hesitation and i think it was starting to ping with regular 95 octane.
when moving the Cam Angle Sensor, only move it a few mm at a time. You don't need to move it much at all.
I tuned it while i was running 98, the car doesn't like anything less than that now. I get power hesitation and i think it was starting to ping with regular 95 octane.
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Re:
Astroboysoup wrote:yeh its a very easy job
when moving the Cam Angle Sensor, only move it a few mm at a time. You don't need to move it much at all.
I tuned it while i was running 98, the car doesn't like anything less than that now. I get power hesitation and i think it was starting to ping with regular 95 octane.
So whats it running at now?/ (Deg btdc)
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Re:
maxwolfie wrote:So whats it running at now?/ (Deg btdc)
15 degrees
might turn it back down... don't really neeeed that extra power and fuel costs.
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muzza2 wrote:..just take it to a dyno place and they'll just thinker with ur computer and running gear maybe an hours work?
but i might be wrong...
Woah, Dyno tuners are VERY expensive! If not they probably aren't that good.
Any mechanice should be able to do it, but follow JBT's advice and learn to do it yourself. (That way if you advance it too far you'll be able to quickly return it to normal).
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
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