Taptaptaptaptaptaptap Noise?

Casey · Postby **Casey** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:45 pm

Ouch! Sorry to hear Richard. Hopefully you are back on the road before too long.

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:04 pm

So here is the cause of Taptaptaptaptaptaptap noise
There is good news and bad news.
Good news is, it was making some really good power.

Now the bad.....

Number 1 really bent in 2 plains and number 4 a bit of a banana too.
No other internal damage though so thats good. Another few weeks and it will all be a bad dream.

Richard.

Hjt · Postby **Hjt** » Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:41 pm

please provide an update for all us interested

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:31 am

Update for anyone that is interested:
Engine rebuilt by Deckspeed and they did a terrific job.
Carillo H-Beam Rods.
Arias +1mm Pistons, finished finish machined locally with 0.003" piston/bore clearance.
ARP main and head studs.
Complete head service,
Balanced and blueprinted bottom end.

Car went to Ben at Port Hacking Auto at Miranda for the tuning, set to 9PSI and ran in for 1000km.
Now at 12PSI and around 150rwkw.
Haltech PS1000 is working well and I'm learning more about AFR than I ever wanted.
In total car was off the road for 3 months and the week I got it back the friggin Rego was due.
Just fitted a Brown Davis with a SE wind blocker (thanks BigDog for the bracket detail) and now I think the car is finally finished........

Big thanks to Daniel and Ben for all the hard work on this.

Richard.

timk · Postby **timk** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:57 am

Very exciting!

Out of interest did you have to remove the mains brace/girdle to use the ARP main studs?

Cheers

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:30 am

timk wrote:Very exciting!

Out of interest did you have to remove the mains brace/girdle to use the ARP main studs?

Cheers

I reused the brace as it does add strength. I set the brace up a Bridgeport and pitched out from the 2 centre holes of each journal to get the position and milled the clearance holes with a 18mm slot drill to clear the nuts.
It would be a of a pain in the arse to do manually but quite easy if you have all the tools.
It was not even close to going together without doing it. There was about a 3mm gap at one end.

Richard.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:42 am

Map.jpg

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that less revs on mine will stop the rods doing what yours did. So far so good after 80,000kms including plenty of track time.

Hjt · Postby **Hjt** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:30 am

Your compression saves you^^

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:39 am

Hjt wrote:Your compression saves you^^

Lower comp on SE than SP?

Regie · Postby **Regie** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:07 pm

davekmoore wrote:
Hjt wrote:Your compression saves you^^

Lower comp on SE than SP?

sure is

The SP isn't a turbo motor. Its just a stock standard NB8B motor

bruce · Postby **bruce** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:20 pm

Regie wrote:The SP isn't a turbo motor. Its just a stock standard NB8B motor

That's what amazes me. Stock motor with boost indicates a strong motor, or trouble down the track (history shows the latter repeatedly).

Hjt · Postby **Hjt** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:37 pm

It's the head that's different. Nb8a head was used on the SE with no VVT and lower compression. The VVT can have its advantages the main issue is building around the higher compression.

SP uses the nb8b platform.

timk · Postby **timk** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:44 pm

The pistons are definitely more domed on the NB8B to give the higher CR. I have used an NB8B bottom end with NB8A head before and have had the two pistons side by side.

Also the SE head is 'like' an NB8A head but the coolant passage flow is like the NB8B head. You wouldn't want to use an NB8A head gasket on an SE head for example.