NB8B timming belt change...

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:21 pm

first of all, like to say great teamwork!

and second wanna give this a go myself though would love to know if people have done belt only at 100k and if that was a prob?

cause some say change everything and others say just change belt and if no leaks should be right.

so any 1/2" torque should be sweet eh?

cheers

Guran · Postby **Guran** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 2:57 pm

My water pump failed recently at 178,000km because a previous owner had not changed it when the timing belt was done at 100,000km. That previous owner saved themselves a bit of cash, but it meant a premature job for me. I had a complete 200,000km service done 22,000km early as a result (by MX-5 Mania), with all new water pump, belt, pulleys, seals, gaskets, etc. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly. Should I ever sell the car, the next owner will get a much better deal than I did! :lol:

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:40 pm

good point plan to keep the car so i guess should do it all

anyways where do people get their torque wrenches from? there tons of these no name ones, they any good?
also i read the crank & cam seals are a bugger to remove.

Regie · Postby **Regie** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 8:51 am

aviper4u wrote:good point plan to keep the car so i guess should do it all

anyways where do people get their torque wrenches from? there tons of these no name ones, they any good?
also i read the crank & cam seals are a bugger to remove.

where abouts in Syd are you located. I have a torque wrench that you may borrow if you dont wish to buy one.

as for the cam seals, they are a tad fiddly but some O ring pullers does the trick, they are easy as to put back on, just use some oil

wun911 · Postby **wun911** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 12:00 pm

Just buy the torque wrench 1/2" get a good range 20-200 pounds. sidchrome, kinchrome,warren brown, snap on whatever. It costs money but a good tap and die set costs more

I liked the drill and screw method for removing the old cam seals.

Go more generous with the gasket sealing stuff on the water pump a bit messy but would rather just do it once and get it right than do it twice...

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:33 pm

sweet keep the tips coming hehe..

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:01 pm

not sure if this is thread hijack etc so can make new one, just thought is same info... anyways

just started the major service on my baby (NB8B) and at the stage where i remove the crank pulley and timing belt etc and need to make my marks though am a bit confused hopefully the pics i took make sense......

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
above image is cams at tdc?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
above image is crank pulley with sensor though not sure as to why not lining up with marks on the lower cover?

please help do not want to take off and put back and scratch head why no start lol

cheers

de Bounce · Postby **de Bounce** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:09 pm

These might help

and

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:26 pm

thanks for reply though just realised, was looking at the bumps on the sensor plate not the indents on the pulley, from what i see i think is all good, right?

anyways now to next prob of the seals.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

the ones on the motor atm are black,
so are these meant to be plastic only?
and are all three meant to be the same size?

checked the online guides and cant find specifics on the seals

any help appreciated thanks!

wun911 · Postby **wun911** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:01 pm

So the pic you posted is your TDC?? I assume both cams have the lobes pointing outwards. And the first cylinder is at the very top? If you have found TDC you can start to remove the old timming belt.

From memory the cam seals are the same size they look correct to me even if they are blue and yeah the stock cam seals were kinda plastic like.

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 8:16 am

cool so the cam seals are the same for both the svt intake cam and the exhaust cam?
as people seem to say you need an extra svt seal though not sure if referring to cam seal or some other seal?

cheers

bigdog · Postby **bigdog** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:05 am

Cam seals are the same. Check your timing very carefully and make sure you have the correct marks on the pulleys lined up (ask me how I know this! :roll:

) and that the crank is on TDC. You also need to be very careful how you seat the crank seal - it needs to be flush with the outside of the housing NOT pushed all the way in.

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:19 am

cheers for the heads up keen to get the intake cam seal off and have a look though need to get a torx head to undu it!

thanks for tips

Regie · Postby **Regie** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 2:49 pm

cam seals will be different!

the inlet side is a bigger seal compared to the exhaust side.

luckily Mania did express postage when i had mine apart

you can see the difference in a picture in my thread

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=31117&start=180

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:01 pm

hey regie! hope ur well

happy new year all!

yes the cam seals are different! got a genuine one from Mazda

timing belt kit comes with four seals 1x crank, 2x cam and another that i have no clue about......

would love to do pump before tonight then after recover a little tomorrow......... put belt and double triple check lol

planing on posting a pic after belt on, so forum experts can check if they are so kind?

cheers