High temps in summer heat.....suggestions please.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Mon Dec 22, 2014 11:06 pm

Magpie wrote:Keep the forum posted how it goes. If interested I can post some data on temps before and after a vented GV Bonnet was installed.

Yes please.

maxgus · Postby **maxgus** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 7:51 pm

Ok so still have some issues.......picked up rad panel and will install ASAP and see if it helps.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 9:06 pm

As requested here is the graph of the temp differences between the GV Bonnet (Round 1 Time Attack) and OEM (Round 5 Time Attack).

I have 2 x air temp sensors (same type, ground and power source). 1 in the mouth of the MX5 (in front of the radiator) and 1 on top of the foam filter of the ITB's. Their position has remained unchanged. The reason for the big difference in the n number is that in later roads I split the data collecting to each session whereas for round 1 I kept all the data in one file. However, the data was collected at the track and hence there is very little data points between 5 and 60, there are numerous for 0 kmh as the car was parked in the pits with the engine running.

However I just realised that for round 5 I had a NACA duct in the OEM bonnet to give cool air to the ITB and this could explain why the OEM is showing cooler than the GV. I will have to find when I put the Duct in and look at the data just before that.

What it does show is that below 45 the GV works better than the OEM with NACA duct, however once speed increases above 70 the OEM/NACA duct runs cooler.

I will repost with the 3 lots of data, silly me did not save the working files...

Temp Diff by Eipeip, on Flickr

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:27 am

Was thinking of enclosing the K&N filter to get more and cooler air to it and to separate it from some of the engine heat and from the oil haze from the catch can filter. Now thinking these Goodwin vents might do all of that by further reducing under bonnet temps and pressures and getting more airflow through the engine bay. Lower under bonnet pressures might even reduce front end lift, or better still, create some downforce?

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 3:59 pm

Just being able to measure results is surely as an issue. On a very fundamental situation I have a number plate - slimline mounted in the grille opening. The car has never boiled and the NBP2 gauge has never shifted from the mid mark. However a mate has the same model car with the standard number plate mount and under the bonnet his car seems cooler i.e. touching items etc. But how does one get a handle on this- Magpie- what method / instruments to use ?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 5:51 pm

It is not hard, what is needed is consistency. For mine I'm only looking at temp diff so ambient does not matter, however what is happening under the bonnet is. If I'm at the track the EGT's will be over a sustained period much hotter than daily driving.

I have daily drive data that I could look at but it would lack some consistency.

Plus it is easy to collect the data and analyse it.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Thu Dec 25, 2014 11:48 am

so the temps are done by a data tracker- I pictured Magpie in a white coat and armed with stethoscope, probes and other paraphernalia. My under bonnet temps could I suppose have been measured maybe crudely by placing a thermometer at certain places and recording temps before and after. I have shifted the number plate so that it does not impede the nose opening and my bet is that the temp gauge is somewhat unreliable in the car- previous posts seem to cast doubt on the value of the gauge.

maxgus · Postby **maxgus** » Fri Dec 26, 2014 2:07 pm

Rad panel installed. Haven't taken for a run yet. After the run down I'm nearly 100% sure it's an airflow issue which I'm guessing is due to the style of intercooler installed. It's small and thick......basically filling the entire front air dam. The end tanks which are solid are clearly visible which means not much air would be getting through. Thinking if I got an intercooler that was bigger and thinner air will be able to get through much easier.

speed · Postby **speed** » Tue Dec 30, 2014 5:34 pm

Got any pics of the IC, please

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cookie · Postby **cookie** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 10:32 am

Well on the m1 I got to the limit of the factory radiator again. Sigh. Ac off was fine but with ac on temps at 110k/hr started to move the needle to 12 o'clock. Outside air temp would have been close to, if not more than 40. I've done everything physically I can. Haven't tried any additives. Asking a bit of it when it's got a 2.5" intercooler, condenser and only a stock replacement rad... 37 or 55 is the question!

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 10:50 am

If you turn the heater on do the temps drop? At 110 there should be sufficient air flow to keep things stable.

Is the water pump working efficiently? Charlie91 made insane power on his NA6 and from memory did not have cooling issues.

http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36963
http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89-roadster-projects/39684-charlies-na6-47.html#post2988402
http://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/charlies-turbo-build-54584/page6/#post936763

And

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=745609#p745609

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 8:24 pm

Does it have ALL of the factory shrouding or equivalents, and are they carefully sculpted around the cooler piping?

Does it have the bonnet seal at the engine bay firewall? Does it have any other gaps at the rear like a mania intake hole?

Do you have a radiator cooling panel?

Do you have foam sealing the radiator to the radiator support panel?

If your cooling system is healthy and you have these things you will run cool.

greenMachine · Postby **greenMachine** » Thu Jan 01, 2015 9:12 pm

^^ This. In spades.

:mrgreen:

maxgus · Postby **maxgus** » Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:49 pm

So it seems my high temps have been caused by a head gasket on its way out.

maxgus · Postby **maxgus** » Mon Jan 19, 2015 1:24 pm

For anyone who is interested. It turned out my $600 3 year old koyorad radiator was blocked on the left side causing bad flow.....hence the hight temps. Got it dynoed by my tuner and found it was running at 107 degrees. Bought an ASI rad from fleabay and back to normal. My hat goes off to the mechanic who diagnosed as head gasket. He also didn't like it when I questioned him over it.