Probably cheaper to keep driving it and keep the engine turning over than having it sit around idle and spend money on a beater car or dangerous scooter.
At least the fuel will get topped up regularly and not loose to many octanes.
I'd just have a low boost daily driver map so you don't put unnecessary wear on the other components or drink too much fuel.
Of just relax and enjoy the car, if things break it's a chance to upgrade.
Race spec motor in a daily driver
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- Okibi
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
- davekmoore
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
I like your way of thinking Okibi.
I reckon the low boost map can be somewhere in the connection between what remains of my brain and my right foot, and only needs to be engaged for the short commute. Not that I'd ever be a hoon on the road once warmed up, of course.
I reckon the low boost map can be somewhere in the connection between what remains of my brain and my right foot, and only needs to be engaged for the short commute. Not that I'd ever be a hoon on the road once warmed up, of course.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
- Okibi
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
I ran my daily people mover dakdak with pretty low boost most of the time, probably saved a few points on my licence but then I was able to turn the boost up a bit when I needed to and/or it was cold enough.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
We (the NSW Club) attended an information night last year at Nulon Oils.
I asked the question about warming up the car before moving off, something I have NEVER done in the 170,000 kilometres travelled, and the answer came back that you cause more wear than simply driving away immediately.
You must have the correct weight of oil in the engine to suit the operating conditions, that’s all. After they gave their talk and demonstration I swapped my oil down to a 0W30 as this was better for performance engines at the track. Have a read on their site for more information or give them a ring and discuss your particular circumstances.
Imaging living in any of the snow bound countries (without a block warmer or heated garage) and having to wait for the engine to warm up. It’s not practical.
I asked the question about warming up the car before moving off, something I have NEVER done in the 170,000 kilometres travelled, and the answer came back that you cause more wear than simply driving away immediately.
You must have the correct weight of oil in the engine to suit the operating conditions, that’s all. After they gave their talk and demonstration I swapped my oil down to a 0W30 as this was better for performance engines at the track. Have a read on their site for more information or give them a ring and discuss your particular circumstances.
Imaging living in any of the snow bound countries (without a block warmer or heated garage) and having to wait for the engine to warm up. It’s not practical.
- hks_kansei
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
The thing people seem to assume is that on first start in the morning the cams etc will be dry as oil has worked back down inside the engine.
But that's not really the case, I've seen MX5 engines opened after having sat for a few months, and sure enough, the cams are still oily.
I've opened up an old Holden red motor that was under a carport for 20 years, sur enough, the rockers were still oily (and I mean good clean oil, not dried thick goo)
But that's not really the case, I've seen MX5 engines opened after having sat for a few months, and sure enough, the cams are still oily.
I've opened up an old Holden red motor that was under a carport for 20 years, sur enough, the rockers were still oily (and I mean good clean oil, not dried thick goo)
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- davekmoore
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
The Mazda dealership I work at has today come up with the best solution - a '98 Mazda 626 I can own for pocket money $$$$ to use for the commute to work. Sorted.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
If it helps, I run 10w40 in my DD which has itbs, cams, hi-comp, bore etc etc. From a cold start (no use for 12hrs or so) I drive 5 days a week, roughly 15mins (8km) one way at 50-80kmh, up/down hills and on the flat and my oil will barely make 80deg C when I get to work in the morning. I see 40psi in my oil at idle and around 120-140 psi while driving untill I get closer to temp.
I guess I should be more sympathetic to my motor as I do tend to load it up a bit according to my vac gauge, but I won't go over 4k for the 1st 10mins and no higher than 5k when I'm closer to work.
My motor now has near 120k on it and once its warm (above 80deg) is dríven like its should be.
Haven't seen a single sign of it not coping, always comes back for more tho it does seem to protest a bit when I get to 8k.
I guess I should be more sympathetic to my motor as I do tend to load it up a bit according to my vac gauge, but I won't go over 4k for the 1st 10mins and no higher than 5k when I'm closer to work.
My motor now has near 120k on it and once its warm (above 80deg) is dríven like its should be.
Haven't seen a single sign of it not coping, always comes back for more tho it does seem to protest a bit when I get to 8k.
- Okibi
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Re: Race spec motor in a daily driver
Sounds like a great solution Dave.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
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