Rings needed 6000 km after new rings installed

[93_Clubman]

A year and 300 km earlier the seller had rebuilt the engine.

So you bought your NA6 a year, in which it only traveled 300kms, after the engine was rebuilt.

From early on the car blew blue smoke.

only noticed the smoke after the first service (by the seller).

Sounds like the engine was in trouble when you bought it.

[Mr Morlock]

Without reading all the comments its pretty obvious that there was a dud job done on the vehicle i.e. replacement of rings - rebore or whatever. When you bought the car its also almost certain that the vehicle had a dud engine and the seller may well have misrepresented the vehicle . I would recommend taking the matter to a consumer tribunal in your State. If you have an invoice then you know who repaired the engine so take it to them for an explanation - make notes etc of what they say. If this all fails and small claims tribunal cannot help then you take the car to a proper mechanic and have it diagnosed. We all have consumer rights so use them. If the engine had been properly repaired / renovated then it would not be blowing smoke.

[93_Clubman]

OP's original post on this issue from Mar 2018 covered all that ground, & OP did back then as suggested: viewtopic.php?f=57&t=76426
Btw, the engine rebuilder was also the seller of the vehicle to the OP.

[Mr Morlock]

Maybe so but it looks like the seller has been dudded.

[93_Clubman]

No sh!t Sherlock!

[Forgiven]

OP
OP not young man. Had this lesson before, but heart over head made him forget it.

[lonesailor]

Given that it seems that the engine would need a hone and probably new rings anyway you might like to try some of the following old school tricks first, they are unlikely to do much further damage.
A cup full of kerosene in the engine oil, 20 or 30 Kms of moderately hard miles,then drain and refill the oil, or
Try an old Caterpiller suggestion for rings which would not seat, remove the air filter and hold an ounce or two under the air intake with the engine running at mid range revs, again change the oil after,(This used to be suggested by Cat themselves) or-
See if Caterpiller or someone else sells the oil additive which they recommended later, to add to the oil to bed the rings, (It possibly was only kero anyway)
I must admit that I have never tried any of these methods personally, I've never had the need, but have heard them recommended years ago by people who should know.

[Forgiven]

Thanks for the suggestions lonesailor.

[Forgiven]

Result of independent - they were not told of the history - testing of the car today by a mechancal repair shop that has been around a while and that appears to have a good reputation:

"Compression all ok but vehicle has excessive blow by past rings.
Comp 1 -175 2 -175 3 - 175 4 - 185
Leakage [cyclinder leak down test] 1 - 35% 2 -45% 3 - 40% 4 - 30%
Suspect valve stem seals also leaking.
Piston rattle [rattle on startup and when revving while stationary] in engine cannot diagnose which one.
Recommend reconditioning engine."

In the leak down test, the whistling was identified as being from 'dry sump tank or crankcase breather'. (Although this was from the man at the desk, not the mechanic who did the listening.)

Would appreciate help with interpretation etc.

What are the implications for putting something in the engine to stop the smell [the exhaust] and keeping on driving the car?

[StuwieP]

You've idenitified substantial blow-by past the piston rings, and at least one of the pistons has enough "leeway" in the bore that it can cause piston slap or rattle.

I don't know what you're thinking you'll be able to put into there to stop the oil consumption, blow-by and all of its consequences?

If the suggestions you've been given already don't get everything to seal up properly, it really sounds like things weren't put together right in the first place. Might be most cost-efficient to purchase a new-old engine and drop it in?

[Mr Morlock]

You have the diagnosis so you get a quote(s) on repair and maybe take a deep breath. You could try the CAT suggestions but its not all that likely its going to fix the problems. Probably the best bet is getting another engine with some sort of a guarantee. You work out what you can afford.

[Alex 2550]

Sorry to hear about the bad luck mate.
i assume your NA6 is still 1.6L. i'm not sure of your budget or future plans with the car, drive and enjoy, restore, modify ect

There is a number of things this could be but unfortunately most will require engine out, strip down, measure and go from there, we are all guessing here.
There is a few additives around that help deglaze cylinders and may be worth a crack but i feel that the issue is probably more than a glazed bore.

the easy fix could be as simple as a light hone, new rings and your good to go but keep in mind you will need new gaskets, seals, fluids ect. If you are not doing this yourself the cost to remove strip down and measure could add up before you even get parts and start to rebuild.
Replace your valve stem seals while there and possibly give the valve seats a freshen up.

worse case i think is that the bores have been honed out too far or number 3 has a slight oval to it requiring an overbore and new pistons and everything above, if this is the case its a poor job of a rebuild and possibly a quick "chuck a set of rings in and get rid of it" kind of deal.
if this was the case i would check everything such as bearings to make sure no other corners were cut. if this is the case then it really is turning into an expensive exercise.

there is another option worth considering............. 1.8 BP swap.
the 1.6 as you know is a sweet little motor that is fun to rev out and row through the gears but in your situation unless you really love the 1.6 i would suggest you find a used 1.8 BP motor and drop it in, its going to be the most cost effective option i think and as easy as engines swaps come.
keep your 1.6 flywheel and clutch as they apparently help the BP feel a little better being smaller and lighter and bolt up or get the 1.8 flywheel machined.
i would suggest you find a 99-2000 NB8A BP4W 1.8 if possible.

you could continue to drive the car as it is while you do your research (annoying yes but keep an eye on oil level and it will most likely keep going) and collect all the parts needed then sell your 1.6 as some people still use them and having a spare motor for parts is handy, im sure you would get something for it.

whatever happens all the best

[StuwieP]

Worth noting a second hand 1.6 won't set you back too much and is more of a "drop-in" option if you want to keep the 1.6 compared to a BP-swap.

[Forgiven]

Thanks for the thoughts on the implications guys.
Reading, including on here, has led me, rightly or wrongly, to conclude that the valve stem seals are the main issue (compression OK, significant leakage but not onto the floor), I am going to try some Liquid Intelligence 230.

[project.r.racing]

Reading, including on here, has led me, rightly or wrongly, to conclude that the valve stem seals are the main issue (compression OK, significant leakage but not onto the floor

How did you come by that?

I haven't read anywhere that you are getting long oil burns upon start up or after long period of decelleration.