Stock vs aftermarket lsd

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:43 pm

Hmm so replacing the centre might not be the best way to go about it.

Aussie Stig · Postby **Aussie Stig** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:51 am

Just read flycasta. He knows diffs

BTW What's a 1.5 way, is that a type of clutch lsd?

Maybe that's the next step when your power is hitting monster turbo levels. :?:

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:57 am

yeah, one that is aggressive under power but only mild limited slip action under over run.

Dann

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:42 am

NitroDann wrote:yeah, one that is aggressive under power but only mild limited slip action under over run.

Dann

Which one is which?

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:01 am

1 is power
.5 is over run

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 5:40 pm

1 way only locked under acceleration loads

2 way locked under accel and decel.

1.5 locked under accel, allows some slip under decel

Most clutch packers are unlocked while coasting. (since if it was locked under coast you may as well weld the centre)

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:53 pm

hks_kansei wrote:1 way only locked under acceleration loads

2 way locked under accel and decel.

1.5 locked under accel, allows some slip under decel

Most clutch packers are unlocked while coasting. (since if it was locked under coast you may as well weld the centre)

that clears up a lot of things cheers.

How hard is it to swap over a complete diff housing. Is it something that could be done at home be an amateur mechanic?

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:31 am

The whole housing isn't too bad to swap, but you will likely need a few breaker bars and a BIG extension for the socket used to undo the hub nuts (since you'll be swapping the half shafts in an NA6 to NA8/NB diff swap)

Basically you'll need a jack, some good stable jack stands, pry bars, and a good socket set.

It's doable at home, just awkward.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 6:36 am

Ive got an na8? but i guess i will still need to remove driveshafts.

Black_Penguin · Postby **Black_Penguin** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:58 pm

I've found it easier (and the factory workshop manual tells you) to unbolt the whole upright rather than undo the hub nuts in a diff replacement.
If you have a friend to help is easily do-able in a day.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:49 pm

dmad_dood wrote:Ive got an na8? but i guess i will still need to remove driveshafts.

Yep.

NA8 should be even simpler.

from memory the NA8 uses a flanged stub axle rather than the 1piece half shafts of the NB.

Simply remove the 4 bolts on each flange and drop the diff down.
Then you can use the pry bars to pull the stub axles from the old diff and push them into the new one.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:52 pm

Stubs still in the diff.

Stubs removed from diff.

NB uses the 1 piece half shafts like these.

So if you've got an NA8, you scored the easier one to do.

Just watch you don't break the circlips on the stub axles when taking them out/putting them in.
And be careful not to split the axle seals on the diff.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:15 am

That doesn't look to bad..

So instead of unbolting the drive shafts from the hubs, i can undo the upper suspension bolt and swing the driveshafts out as one piece? That really doesn't look to bad...

Ive got 4 x axle stands and a trolley jack along with good general tools (impact wrench as well).

Hopefully i can save a few hundred dollars. And chances are i will be doing the job along - none of my mates like this sorta stuff