Need advice on Engine Rebuild

[BadBong]

Wozzah build race engines.

thats his job.

Dann

Ar-ha...

PMing him now.

[project.r.racing]

Wozzahs price is if you supply a engine.

If you wanna pay a mechanic to pull it in and out, plus all fluids and time getting it running.

Well it will be double that yes?

Edit// engine not head I'm saying.

[NitroDann]

It will be well under a grand for engine removal and install.

Dann

[project.r.racing]

$700?

[timk]

I would hazard a guess and say 8 hours labour?

[sailaholic]

Bad bong, my head is worth woz now.

Been happy with the process so far, but it requires you pull the head yourself. (didn't bother me).

Check his Facebook page Warren heath performance.


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[funmx5]

Badbong if you are keeping your mx5 do the job properly the first time get a quote then add 20 % on top of quote for extras that crop up hoses etc then go from there

[bruce]

Sounds a bit like 'How long is a piece of string?'

[marty085]

I would hazard a guess and say 8 hours labour?

I am getting an engine swap done next week and was quoted 8 hours labour by mechanic.

[Hellmun]

Rod/piston combo's can be had for $700 up depending on what you want (e.g http://www.ebay.com/itm/CP-Forged-Pistons-Eagle-Rods-Miata-323-BP-1-8-9-0-83mm-/390325272733?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMiata&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae133009d)... Just check Ebay US. 83.5mm (slight overbore is a good idea just to clean the bore from potential damage) and any comp ratio you want. 8.7:1 supatechs are what I went for as I'd rather make power with boost than compression on a race motor. Any rod is far better than factory and a balance of the rotating assembly will give better bearing life to pretty much every rotating component plus a smoother running motor. Bear in mind you don't know the damage that has occurred yet which will have an affect. I'd drop your oil ASAP if you haven't already and check for metal shavings.

Your power goals are within range of simply a good tune with an exhaust. Maybe a boost increase to 12psi as well without any head/cam changes. Just make sure the motor isn't eating itself, metal shavings get everywhere and can damage pistons/valves/bearings/everything which adds dollars to the rebuild. At the cheapest I'd do rods/bearings/balance and re-assembly with a full VRS kit.

Alternatively just buy an NB8B SVT motor from somewhere like formaz for $1500ish and swap it over. If you can't do it yourself an engine swap won't be as much as a rebuild and re-assembly. Then your old motor is a canditate for a proper rebuild with no time constraints down the line, then swap over and sell the replaced motor at a later date. I'd say a 90,000km NB8B motor that's never been boosted will be in much better condition than you 230,000km's boosted/oil starved motor. No internal changes between the SP and regular 8B.

[greenMachine]

My 2c.

Forget the balance and lighten, unless you are building an 8000rpm screamer.

Definitely rods, for any boosted BP.

Only deal with someone who knows mazda engines.

drain the oil, see what comes out ...

I would settle for a stock head, unless you are looking for 200+rwkw

Maybe a bigger/better intercooler?

How's your engine management?

[Hjt]

I feel heaps bad for you mate.

If your willing to spent the money on a rebuild, don't neglect a injector upgrade and a aftermarket ecu. The tuning on stock with these alone will get you 150+ rwkw.

I know you have had bad luck lately, sorry

[sailaholic]

I agree you should look at injectors and ecu before head work. But you can ignore them to the rattle problem is fixed.

My personal view is the balancing spoked make it all a bit sweeter for minimal extra cost. Talk to you're. Engine builders and see what they say.

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[BadBong]

Thanks everyone for their input and the many, many PMs that I've received thus far.

I'm steering towards the engine rebuild route and I'm planning to source a set of Carrillo H-beam rods from the U.S. via Flyin Miata and might start a GB for others who are interested to grab stuff from them at the same time.

Moving forward, I'll also be investing in an aftermarket ECU (most likely an Adaptronic) to make the power delivery smoother as well as a boost controller to give me 2 or 3 boost settings to play with from inside the cabin (1 for rainy days, 1 for city driving and 1 for full power).

What I'd like to know is what other things should I try to source from the U.S. at the same time?... i.e. Clutch is a possibility.

[sailaholic]

Cheaper places then flying miata and much cheaper rod options.(like eagle, super tech ect) they will be cheaper then the used Carrillo rods fm has in their "chuck out" bin

Should also get a full gasket set (mine was from Ebay) water pump and timing belt are 50/50 here or the states if you want a gates racing one (mania locally). Much cheaper from the states with generics in a package (belt and pump).

Arp headstuds. I bought off Ebay but later found JEGS which might be cheaper depending on postage.

Possibly injectors? Have to do you're own research on that one.

Pistons if you have scored bores.

Thermostat? Coolant reroute if you want to go m tuned or begi. (mx5 plus does an option locally)

Must be other stuff but that will get you started.

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