Law of diminishing returns on an NA6?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 10:12 pm

Thanks for the clarification, I just knew what I had to do to get similar form a BP motor and it was not $5k

Ice88 · Postby **Ice88** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 10:26 pm

Magpie wrote:Thanks for the clarification, I just knew what I had to do to get similar form a BP motor and it was not $5k

I used parts from other cars. Which helped I'd imagine

3SGTE Rods rather then custom made. Also took my time and picked up cams second hand ($900), UDP, Cam Gears, Exhaust Manifold, Head (mild work).

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 3:15 pm

llmoose wrote:I'm wondering what sort of gains can be made on an NA6 without breaking the bank and going silly.. What gets best bang for buck?

I was considering forced induction and would really love too but the resale/legal repercussions are just too much to worry about it.

Is there a decent guide to getting good naturally aspirated power out of the 1.6? I figure they sit around the 70rwkw from the factory, would 100rwkw be attainable without a rebuild? The car is a weekender so I don't necessarily need it to be civilised but don't want a track pig either...

I think you might find the real power sits around the low to mid 60's. but it all depends on where & when you get it measured.
to Get 100 rwkw N/A its going to get expensive going to get expensive.
If you go down the ECU direction sh'el drive like a cow around town most likely.

you would need all the bolt on bits.
excaust,
headers
full widened CAI.
Cams i used 276 duration i think 9.2 depression
cam sprockets
increase your top RPM by about 200 if you can with one of those crystals
i also had an Adaptronic
Upgraded diff
upgraded brakes

She was sweet at WOT.
recited poetry from 5000 rpm seriously
noisy as hell
but she was an absolute bitch to drive in traffic.

I got rid of the adaptronic. Patchy was about 95rwKw and much better to drive in traffic on the standard ECU.
no she certainly had less urgency about her.

but seriously. from someone whose been there done that. Take the advice of going turbo. If ever I win the lottery. Thatrs where patchy is going.

Eventually Patchy got totally de-tuned. she's running somewhere around the 65-70 killer wasps. with CAI headers & big exhaust.

If I was to go down the same route again. I'd re-install some big cams & a roll bar. If its not turbo.

regardless of which way you go. You will need to upgrade your diff most likely as well.

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:02 pm

A good ecu should not be blamed for a crap tune.

Dann

Jeo · Postby **Jeo** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:08 pm

StanTheMan wrote:If you go down the ECU direction sh'el drive like a cow around town most likely.

Sounds more like the fault of the ECU or the tune than a blanket statement. I've had my Autronic running standalone for years and it is every bit as livable as my partners stock NA6 was. Even on those sub-zero Canberra mornings.

Edit: Dann beat me to it

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:13 pm

well I guess the lesson there is I would never have a go at tuning myself again.
Nor would I purchase any stand alone ECU without having dríven one in another car & without knowing who tuned it. And how much to expect to have it tuned.

in my case it was tuned by someone. it wasn;t particular good around town. Then I had a go myself it didn't get a lot better.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:25 pm

Mine has ITB's, 288 duration cams, over 10mm lift , 11:1 compression and no issues with idle or around town driving. In fact it has a very steady idle at around 950 rpm. The only issue is it does not like being dríven very slowly because the throttle is very touchy.

As for others it is not the ECU's fault rather the way it is tuned.