Good auto electrician for NB8A electrical problems

NMX516 · Postby **NMX516** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:28 pm

My other car uses a Microtech which I installed myself, and it was a simple matter of ripping out the std ecu and just wiring up all the sensors and injectors to the Microtech. Some cars however (and I'm not certain if this is the case with the 5, but suspect it is) require the stock ecu to remain so that the dash and some other things can still operate. In those cases, both ecu's remain in the car and operational - just the programmable one controls the engine operation.

The Microtech won't control any of the things which you have mentioned don't work, so as a start, I'd suggest only removing the sensor signal wires and injector wires from the stock ecu, and plugging all the others back into it.

Sean · Postby **Sean** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:46 pm

Mate does the car run?

I've got a bit of experience with the LT series, could possibly help you with fault finding if the problem is in teh Microtech, btu from the sounds of it, I don't think it is.

Did you do the install totally by yourself? If so do you recall what wires yu have cut or changed so far?

NMX516 · Postby **NMX516** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:14 am

I'll have a look through my M'tech install manual tonight... Where are you drawing the power for the M'tech from?

Might be worth phoning M'tech today and running it past them. You have to phone them after 1.30pm I think it is. They are pretty helpful.

sprx3 · Postby **sprx3** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:20 pm

I looked at putting a microtech in my car BUT didnt do so as i knew there would be too many conficts in doing so, the std ecu runs the alternator & bcm,, now im no expert but im guessing if the std ecu isnt getting a reading that the engine is running it has no reason for it to do all the functions of a running vehicle, therefore you need to let it do all its normal functions & also get the same readings for the MT. Did you (or the installer) cut all the wires needed for the MT from the std ecu? if so the std ecu will not know the engine is running. The way my piggy back (greddy emanage ultimate) works is by changing the original signal for the timing & stopping all injector signals from the std ecu & sending its own.

I would look at how its wired in & if you can even get a diagram for us to study, i will bet that all the wires needed for the MT have been chopped from the std ecu which is why its not working......

(just re read your last post) you need to have all the wires going to the std ecu & run the MT as a piggy back not a stand alone) this will solve your problems

feel free to pm me as i dont get a chance to get on here too much.

ampz · Postby **ampz** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 11:18 am

This guy has installed an aftermarket ecu in parallel (at first) with a 99 ecu. I would take a look through this post for similarities in wiring.

Actually his whole thread is quite informative, he has found an aftermarket regulator (the 99 has the regulator controlled by the ecu) which replaces the one on the back of your alternator.

Hope it helps!!!

Sean · Postby **Sean** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 7:59 pm

It'd be worth checking if it's been wired parralel or in series on/to the stock ECU as this could effect the sensors ability to communicate with the factory ECU. My money would be on someone cutting some of the stock wires that shouldn't have been cut (or) faulty connection to the orig ecu.

Sean · Postby **Sean** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:00 pm

buliarios wrote:if you have the microtech running stand alone, how did you get the tacho to work? i've tried running the tacho signal to one side of the tacho but it only reads half the rpm. or is there a dedicated rpm signal wire?

for the alternator, i've just triggered it by running ignition power on.

a/c i still haven't figured out the wiring yet.

i think i'll leave the standard ecu just for grounding points rather than rewiring the car.

RPM signal can come direct from the ignition.

Fatty · Postby **Fatty** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:33 pm

i don't have a microtech , but when i installed my dfa piggyback , at first i tapped into the 12v power at the ecu. the combination of the dfa and stock ecu was drawing too much current on this wire and the car ran like crap. then i hooked a wire for 12v for my dfa directly from the ignition / accesories wire under the steering column and everything has run perfectly from then on.

might be worth a try .