N-Power T

[DOYLMX5]

Hi guys,
Does anyone know the go with this N*Power turbo kit?

Like does it come with all that is needed to turbo the na6?
has anyone else on here done it and it worked?
What else is mandatory to finish the job?

I know it doesn't come with bigger injectors or intercooler.

Any thoughts or opinions?

Jason

[Boags]

You will need more fuel (injectors or heaps of fuel pressure - I STRONGLY recommend the first option) and then some way of controlling it - ECU/piggyback/rising rate fuel pressure riser. Then you'll need an intercooler and all piping and some sort of BOV.

The manifold, dump pipe and turbo are something that are hard to find cheap though, so getting those 3 for 1200 isn't bad, especially new. There have been some who have had fitment issues with the dump pipe, so you might need to get it cut and rewelded by an exhaust shop. I have an identical manifold on my setup though, albeit with an adaptor plate because I'm running a different turbo.

I thought you were selling your car?

Boags

[DOYLMX5]

yeah well its all up and down for me.
want to sell it, dont want to sell it.
still want to do it up.
typical young person stuff.

just because i might be selling it doesnt mean im not still interested!

mmm turbo

still need money first.
nothing wrong with dreaming.

anything else on that site look good?

[Boags]

anything else on that site look good?

Plenty! Teins, whiteline adjustables, LSDs, short shifter, exhaust flanges and bends...

I'd get those first three items before getting a turbo, if I had my time again.

Boags

[Uncle Arthur]

I have both - and the manifold and dumppipe both required modification to fit (and I don't mean maybe) and if you have aircon, you have to remove it to fit the turbo, then refit later - not a cheap exercise m- at least mine already needed regassing otherwise I'd be more pi$$ed..

The dumppipe had to be cut immediately after the bottom bend - it interferes with the gearbox, and if you don't cut it, it is impossible to get it to line up with the turbo outlet flange. It also needed a belt with a hammer just to insert a small indent to clear one of the gearbox housing 'fins'.

You then need to get an exhaust gasket refitted, so you have to pull it all back out.

The O2 sensor plug exits directly into the heater hose coming out of the back of the engine, so you have to bend it (the hose) - not an easy task, and resulting in losing coolant all over the place in the process.

The bottom flange bolt at the turbo/dumppipe is practically captured beneath the first pipe bend. I had to cut the exhaust nut in half with a grinder so it would be thin enough to fit into the available gap, hold the dumppipe away from the flange, insert and touch fit the nut, and then do it up as the flange tightens. Forget using a socket to tighten - I needed THE thinnest 14mm spanner I had, and then it was only able to be tightened 1/8-1/4 of a turn at a time. Hard on the back when you're bent over the motor, and you need small hands/thin fingers to fit the nut.

The manifold required a number of cuts to the corner holes on the flange plate to fit to the side of the engine - even 1 mm of imperfection was too much.

There are reports out of the turbo boys in the US about the manifold cracking around the welds at the flange plate - I made up a strip bracket that goes from the top of the turbo housing, and bolts to the side of the block to take the weight of the turbo and minimise the chance of cracks developing under the heatcycles (from sag/stretch).

So - there you go. It was by no means 'bolt on'. But it works well once fitted.