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I have a Grungy old PRO2000 that is missing padding. No problems with that part.
My issue is i am not the most clever person and am having issues coming up with a easy solution to mount the PRO2000 in my NA.

I have a track day next Thursday and would love to have the seat in for that.
It appears to fit, shoulder wings will be tight against door but i think i can slam it shut.
Also happy enough to trim the shoulder a but with a angle grinder if required.

This is the seat.








It is side and bottom mount.
Happy to use either.
I even have a set of OEM rails if that is possible somehow to get it going?
Could retain a little sliding action that way.


Any help much appreciated!!!
Would be happy to pay someone if they could get something decent going for it?

If the Pro2000 ends up working i would then look at buying a better condition one as the seat seems like a perfect fit for me.

You wanna check out mine bolted to seat rails? I have the new Pro 2000

I remember this line as it's been said many times; "should line up with original Mazda rails, except one of the rear holes needs enlarging". This may or may not be right.

spikes wrote:You wanna check out mine bolted to seat rails? I have the new Pro 2000

That would be awesome!!

Did you get it to fit the rails yourself??

Flat bar from bunnings bolted to the factory sliders. Seat mounts (revolution racegear etc) bolted to flat bar and seat bolted to mounts. This is quick and dirty and will leave you sitting as high if not higher than with the stock seats.



Your other option is to bend some flat bar to match the humps on the floor of the car and bolt it to the existing holes where the sliders bolt to. You can then bolt the seat directly to this or use side mounts if it does not line up with the seat.



If the seat can be bolted directly to the rails then that is a winner. This is true of the Sprint V.

deviant wrote:Flat bar from bunnings bolted to the factory sliders.

may I make a safety announcement.

DON'T USE ALUMINIUM !!!!


At a minimum use steel, thick steel. (The stuff at Bunnings does the job, but ideally you want something even stronger than the gal)

To bend it where needed you'll need a vice, and a hammer. (a blow torch also helps it bend without causing cracks/weakness)

My method was simply clamp the end into the vice with the jaws just at the edge of the bend needed, then alternate between heat and hammer to slowly bend it to the correct angle.


The last seat I did ended up being 3mm steel strips bent to match the floor humps, with Mazda AZ1 rails bolted to the strips.

Thanks Deviant.

I have often wondered how you actually make your version 2 work?

If you bolt the seat to the flat bar then how do you bolt the flat bar to the floor?
Or is there enough room to then get a spanner or something in there?

HAHA, yeah i would not use Aluminum.
Thankyou though hks_kansei.

I wish i had a vice, blow torch etc.. Apartment living does not lend itself well to these things.

If someone local has the required tools i would be ever appreciative if you could help me fab something strong and easy to mount for track days.

Dweezle wrote:If you bolt the seat to the flat bar then how do you bolt the flat bar to the floor?
Or is there enough room to then get a spanner or something in there?

Depending on your height, you can normally still get an arm in behind the seat and do the bolts up.

It's awkward though, but possible if you don't need to have the seat really far back.



The best case is to use rails of some kind (even if they get bolted to the flat bar)



Hopefully for you the seat uses the same bolt pattern as the SprintV, then it's a super easy job done in 15minutes with a drill.

aren't you selling pci seat mounts?

why not use one of them?

They do not work for a pro2000.
once the seat is between the rails there is about an inch gap.
I wish i could use one!!

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Get some spacers machined?

Just a thought. Only ~12.7 mm gap either - provided you use unbrako shcs torqued correctly, there shouldnt be any bending issues. The mounting holes are m6 aren't they? The spacers would want to be as big as possible.


Edit - 1" gap either side or total?? Inch gap either side could be pushing it....

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plohl wrote: unbrako shcs

what?

hks_kansei wrote:

plohl wrote: unbrako shcs

what?

Socket head cap screw....

Unbrako is a manufacturer....

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Good idea on the spacers.. What could i use that you would recommend?

I was worried about bending the PCI mount to close the gap.

They seem to be M8 1.25 bolt threads.
Which i picked up some High Tensile bolts today to try with.
Might be a bit of a project on the weekend.