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This problem has been traced to the black rubber seal across back of engine bay and bonnet getting tired and letting hot engine air past and into the ventilation system under windscreen. Damn nuisance in hot climates...
I've fixed it by getting a strip of door sealer (foam strip with sticky back) . Run it across the top of the seal and stick down. Or leave the sticky back covered and draw it through the hollow body seal with a wire to "fatten " it.
So much better

There is also a problem with the heater not closing properly.

Silvia wrote:This problem has been traced to the black rubber seal across back of engine bay and bonnet getting tired and letting hot engine air past and into the ventilation system under windscreen.

Also assuming the bonnet hinges hadn't been spacered to lift it slightly.

Pleased to report the door sealer strip has made a noticeable difference to the cockpit air temp.

hey interested in sorting out the hot air vent problem myself though where did you get the sealer from?

the US forums talk about putting foam 1/2 " OR 3/8" foam tube through the existing tube.

what have other people tried?

thanks

I've tried the foam tube inside and then the door sealing strips but eventually gave up and went and bought a new strip from Mazda. Much easier and better in the long run.

The door sealing foam seems to be doing fine after over a month. Got it from Supercheap by the roll,Bunny's etc. have it too....even $2 shops. Handy stuff for any rattles or drafts......

ended up putting some clear plastic hose through the existing rubber seal though the air coming out of the vents seems to be cooler it by no mean as cool as outside.

how much did the stealership want for a new seal?

as anybody got the air coming into the cabin much cooler then outside or is it practically impossible.

Many find the heater vent flap near the glovebox does not quite close, letting heat through. Worth checking, but often gearshift boots are damaged and let heat in from the gearbox, so check that too......but some heat will always come in from the transmission tunnel. Could be good in winter

A common problem plagueing NA's and NB's. Not sure if Mazda sorted it out on the NC. I've played around with a few things and improved the situation a little but once the outside temperature gets into the early 20's things still get heated. I dont know why it's so hard for Mazda as it also reduces the effectiveness of the A/C which is marginal at best. My Mitsubishi Mirage manages to be able to get ambient temperature air into the cabin.

"as anybody got the air coming into the cabin much cooler then outside or is it practically impossible."

How could incoming air be cooler than outside....without using a/c?

You have to remember you are sitting beside ,almost on top of, a hot gearbox. Price you pay for low centre of gravity...great handling.
I saw someone replaced their tunnel insulation with 2" thick stuff....maybe helpfull?

Silvia wrote:Many find the heater vent flap near the glovebox does not quite close, letting heat through. Worth checking, but often gearshift boots are damaged and let heat in from the gearbox, so check that too......but some heat will always come in from the transmission tunnel. Could be good in winter

Any more info on that one mate?