PAINT GUN REPORT

Body, Paint, Interior and Trim questions and answers

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billybunter
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby billybunter » Fri Sep 09, 2016 4:35 pm

if you asked me what is the most important part when doing a spray job -apart from weather and humidity -its the water trap! you can get away with a crappy 40 litre compressor - I do it all the time and it just takes a bit longer.

why don't I buy a good one then. I keep saying this is the last spray but a few months down the track out comes the gun and it starts all over again. ive even been paid to spray a few cars for people and knocked back an old falcon re-spray about 3 months back. reason being they start off happy but in the end think they are getting a $10k re-spray for a fraction of that BUT think they are spending the big money! so I just do my own and let then get .....baked :lol:

so a supercheap 40 litre compressor will do the job plus that $55 spray gun will give you great results and spray as good as you can handle it. you'll require a pretty good face mask that's important rather than breath in fumes which become overpowering with acrylic and enamel paint and 2pac -forget it!

so you have the info on the compressor/mask/gun/ and now the water trap. I tried many which hang off the compressor plus ran them in line with a trap right before the gun but in most cases right in the centre of a big panel - mainly a bonnet out would spit the water droplets from the gun -job buggered. this went on and off for quite some time till i'd had enough and finally mentioned it to the auto paint supplier

he told me -you need a toilet roll filter trap -and that is exactly what it is. you just unscrew it and add a full roll of toilet paper and screw it back up and connect your in/out hoses. using this method of a water trap I have been able to do whole car re-sprays with no water spits on your freshly painted surface. plus it does work great. you can unscrew the lid and pull out the roll and feel the dampness from the water it has extracted from the line.

then you just toss away the old toilet roll or let it dry out and replace with a new roll. you can even take it back inside and use it yourself :lol: these filter holders don't come cheap but you will only ever buy one -once. I think I paid about $150 for it many years back -could be 10 plus years but with the internet about these days -you could probably chase them down.

prior to a painting session like yesterday's front bar and especially if I have not used the equipment for a while -here's what I do

1. turn on the compressor and let it go half cycle and turn it off. slowly undo the plug at the bottom of the compressor and remove it totally. be careful it doesn't blow out of your hand. this will get rid of any water trapped in the compress from the volume of air exiting the chamber

2. plug back in the compressor and connect your hoses and the trap. turn power back on and take to half pressure. connect the gun and squeeze the trigger and empty the whole contents of air from the compressor through the spray gun.

3. pull the disconnect plug from the gun and tap the compressor lead on the cement floor to see if any water is present in the air lines. following what I said and using the toilet roll filter -all will or should be good. I had not used my compressor for months and although water came out of the compressor outlet yesterday - nothing from the line or on the work.

well that's how I do it. if it helps...it helps if not you got something to read and fill in time :lol:
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speed
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby speed » Fri Sep 09, 2016 4:53 pm

Well there you go! Thanks for the tips :)

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StanTheMan
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby StanTheMan » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:05 pm

Thank You Billy,

I think Ive located the INLINE FILTER / TOILET ROLL FILTER DRYER KIT. That's awesome.Yes as expected its gone up in price since 10 years ago. But sounds like its worth it

what do you use for bumper bar adhesive? Iv'e had shocking results. But that could be because the amount of paint Ive applied is perhaps too little It keeps peeling off after about 12 mths.

I guess that will be my next project after I finish bolting the B6 back together again & add a megasquirt
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billybunter
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby billybunter » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:38 pm

either of these work fine. both good enough to use to spray a full bumper. only only problem with cans -once they get a bit low then you sometimes get drama with paint spit.
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billybunter
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby billybunter » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:41 pm

buy the roll filter. once you use it you will never go back...well I wouldn't I've had too much trouble with the others. just hang it 2 metres above the compressor and away you go

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StanTheMan
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby StanTheMan » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:14 pm

yea i'll be getting the paper filter
just not sure what the difference is between the one at Amazon or Ebay AU. one is $100 the ebay one is $250 both made by the same manufacturer.
just one of them is distributed by an AU supplier.
all the ones in USA are about AU$100 form the USA but shipping is not available to AU.


Yea Ive been using the Septone Bumper adhesive. Probably a bit of both, empty can & perhaps too little paint.

will see how it goes in a few months
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billybunter
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby billybunter » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:23 pm

the amazon is the exact same unit as mine so you know where to get it :wink:

speed
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby speed » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:36 pm

I've also found the flexi prime to do the job nicely. Bugs do seem to like it though.

With the water trap, I've used a basic $15 in line water seperator straight off the compressor.
Have painted entire front ends with all panels removed from the car and had no spitting issues. Maybe 2pak is different.

I'm still curious to see if the bog roll would somehow be better. Maybe I've just been lucky.

I once dripped paint from where the pot joins the gun after mixing up some more.
Since then, I mask around the join for extra protection and so far that has not failed me.
Sure beats rubbing down the panel and re painting.

Billy, why is the cover removed from your air filter in that shot. Is that also some trickery?

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billybunter
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby billybunter » Fri Sep 09, 2016 7:30 pm

good observation :wink: I lost the filter housing and that was the closest I could get :lol:


when your painting a whole car and emptying and refilling the paint gun several times that's when you can get the water in the compressor line issues. probably not a major factor with smaller jobs but it depends upon the season -weather -humidity and if it only happens once - its really annoying. I've experience it quite a lot :lol:

worst case which happened badly was while painting an old hq stateman - big car with big panels. same compressor did the job too :lol:

speed
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby speed » Fri Sep 09, 2016 9:34 pm

Ok, that makes sense. A small price to pay for the reassurance.
Next time I paint I'll be sure to get the toilet roll filter. :D

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Gladiator
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby Gladiator » Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:24 am

Hey Billy, great thread. I'm not far off painting my NA. I'm no stranger to a spray gun, only not cars. I did my time spraying furniture. I'm just wondering what you think is best, acrylic or enamel? The only car I've ever painted was a '72 Mini, so all steel. The plastic bits concern me as far as process goes. Also do you think it's best to paint with the panels on the car or off? I don't think I'll be using metallic colours.


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Mr Morlock
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby Mr Morlock » Mon Sep 26, 2016 1:37 pm

Its very simple- if you dont have a spray booth / baking oven and you are painting at home the only choice is acrylic for colour coat. You also would not paint by removing panels- thats just extra work for no gain. What you could do is invest in a good book on how to Paint on a Budget which answers the questions on how to go about it . For paint advice see the experts i.e. the guys that supply direct to professional spray painters.Seek advice on the undercoat- I have been told the 2pk is a good idea and supposedly safe with good ventilation and a quality mask but top coat is not recommended in 2 pack- ask the paint specialist. And the big point is that preparation is most of the work.

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Re: RE: Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby speed » Mon Sep 26, 2016 9:33 pm

Gladiator wrote:Hey Billy, great thread. I'm not far off painting my NA. I'm no stranger to a spray gun, only not cars. I did my time spraying furniture. I'm just wondering what you think is best, acrylic or enamel? The only car I've ever painted was a '72 Mini, so all steel. The plastic bits concern me as far as process goes. Also do you think it's best to paint with the panels on the car or off? I don't think I'll be using metallic colours.


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I'm not Billy but have sprayed some vw golf's. Yes prep is everything.
Plastics require a primer like flexi prime, then paint.
Personally I prefer 2 pak metallics.
It is 2016 Afterall. Colour over base then clear.
Is shiney off the gun and you can wet sand to buff. The last car I sprayed 6 coats of clear as you can rub through a coat or two.
I've always painted panels off the car but you can leave them on and mask to prevent over spray.
Hope that helps.

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Gladiator
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby Gladiator » Mon Sep 26, 2016 9:40 pm

I have a full face respirator, but no booth or baking facilities. Doesn't 2 pack need baking?


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speed
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Re: PAINT GUN REPORT

Postby speed » Mon Sep 26, 2016 10:59 pm

You can buy 2k that doesn't need a booth. Paint supplier can describe it better. You can also buy iso-free 2k that is no more dangerous than acrylic.

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