Sparco sprints in 96 NA8 - rails, belts and 4pt harness

Jessegroves · Postby **Jessegroves** » Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:51 am

Not really relative to the thread, but would you be willing to sell your tan seats? Been looking since last year for a pair for sale

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RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:02 am

Nah sorry, im going to hang onto them

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Mar 15, 2016 5:05 pm

re: the crotch belts.

As long as you're just cutting foam and paddind I can't see an issue with the crotch belts going there.
Most important with them is to fit them correctly at the floor end (check the CAMS guide for diagrams etc)

And also to wear the harness properly when using it.

make sure when you're using it to make sure nothing is under the belt, and that they're tight.

I've seen photos of the aftermath of an accident where the driver's scrotum had been slightly under the crotch belts.
Just take my word for it, you dont want that.

RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Wed Mar 16, 2016 9:15 am

Thanks kansei,
Sounds like something i dont want to experience thats for sure!

When my backing plates and seatbelt stalks show up I will try to get the seats modplated before I start making holes in the seats.

Slow progress

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RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:42 am

The stalks arrived from seatsafe and so did the backing plates. I went with 170mm webbed stalks so that they would be the right length to easily utilize the hole in the seat.

I didnt use a rivet for the backing plate, but theres a spring washer and its all tight. I siliconed the backing plate to prevent any water getting in.

Still need to get passenger side in and hopefully get them modplated.

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:08 am

RE: the hole for the crotch belt , I would cut a sheet of strong plastic/corflute/plywood approx 20X20cm , cut appropriate size hole (obviously) and line the edges of the hole with protective something-or-rather as you suggested, and stitch/glue the sheet under the seat.

Without it, the belt will eventually tear through the fabric

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Mar 24, 2016 10:56 am

Great idea.

RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:13 am

That is a good idea. Thanks steampunk

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RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 9:58 pm

Began to look at passenger side install.
Looks like if I use the existing (standard) 2 bolt holes at the rear of the rails (to attach rails to the seat) and drill 2 new holes to attach the front end of the rails to the front end of the seat that i can bolt down 3 of the 4 corners to the chassis (using the original chassis mount points).
The new front holes in the rail will have to be brought off center and to the outside of each rail so that the front will be tapered in to meet the original chassis mount points.

Under that configuration the front will bolt up fine to the standard chassis bolt holes. But one of the rear mount points will be off by about 30mm (rear mount points as pictured)

This seems like the best option I have available at this point. I would have it welded in place.

Thoughts?

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:11 am

When doing this are you sure the rails are parallel?

If the rails line up with one end, they will line up with the other. The only way the rails can match 3/4 of the bolt holes is if one is skewed to one side.
Which means the seat won't travel back and forth (well, it will a bit but will jam)

When the rails are parallel you will always have at least 2 holes not lining up, and both on the same side.

RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:29 pm

The rails have to be toed in toward the front (for some reason the holes in the floor plan are not parallel on the passenger side. But the seat holes are parallel, so i will have to offset the rail mounting points to get that angle.
Each side of the rails can slide at different rates. Seems to slide fine with the back end of the rails bolted to seat tight (tight enough for it to take considerable effort to move the rails). There wasnt any resistance when i slided it back and forth. I think that each rail moved independently - at different rates due to the different angles?

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RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:54 pm

Ahhh i think i know what you mean now. The front hole for the locating pins (not the bolt holes) ARE parallel to the rear bolt holes.

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:59 pm

it's not so much the holes, but the actual sliding rail parts that need to be parallel.

while each side can slide indepedantly in order to slide with the rails canted in/out the part where it bolts to the seat would need to shift inwards/outwards as it does so. Which isn't possible with it bolted down.

RileyR · Postby **RileyR** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 2:31 pm

I see no way of safely mounting the passenger side sparco on stock rails without making new mounting points in the floor plan.

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 2:56 pm

you could look into making a pair (or single) of plates to go onto the seat and adapt the seat mounts?

Alternatively, if you can buy a pair of generic universal rails (flat) you can cut some steel plates/bars that match the holes in the floor, making them wider than necesary, then simply bolt the rails to the seat and mark out where on the plates the rails need to be bolted.

As long as you use high tensile bolts and nuts, and use decent strength steel (I think I used 3mm steel) it should be safe.

I've never mounted the sparcos on a passenger side before, so dont know 100% what needs doing, but that fact it's been done before surely there's someone who knows the way on teh forum? (ie: there may be a simpler way than my making brackets method)