Ah, I see.
I thought it was some sort of weird autocorrect mistake
Installing PRO2000 Seat NA. Can anyone help??
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- hks_kansei
- Speed Racer
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- Vehicle: NB8A
- Location: Victoria
Re: Installing PRO2000 Seat NA. Can anyone help??
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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- Racing Driver
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Re: Installing PRO2000 Seat NA. Can anyone help??
Dweezle wrote:Thanks Deviant.
I have often wondered how you actually make your version 2 work?
If you bolt the seat to the flat bar then how do you bolt the flat bar to the floor?
Or is there enough room to then get a spanner or something in there?
You would drop the bolts through the holes in the flat bar and then bolt the seat to the bar...and then you need to do a lot of fiddling to get the bolts in to the floor, it can be done though.
I think you can use aluminium for seat mounts but the dimensions called for are different, should be in the cams manual.
Use grade 8 or better nuts and bolts.
Goodwin sells Sparco pattern mounts for the NA / NB, I think they are compatible with Sparco sliders.
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Installing PRO2000 Seat NA. Can anyone help??
Both my seats are length of 3mm steel, using OEM front mounts and directly bolted to the seat and to the floor. They are held in place by plates and nuts under the floor.
I think you seen them a few weeks back, it's possible to make them for your seat later on. You will sit lower, maybe to clear your tiny roll bar
I think you seen them a few weeks back, it's possible to make them for your seat later on. You will sit lower, maybe to clear your tiny roll bar
- plohl
- Racing Driver
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Re: Installing PRO2000 Seat NA. Can anyone help??
Dweezle wrote:Good idea on the spacers.. What could i use that you would recommend?
I was worried about bending the PCI mount to close the gap.
They seem to be M8 1.25 bolt threads.
Which i picked up some High Tensile bolts today to try with.
Might be a bit of a project on the weekend.
If it uses m8 that's much better. As it's metric, you'll want grade 8.8 or above (grade 8 is imperial) and torque them correctly.
You can just make the spaces from aluminum or steel. Ideally you would want someone to turn the spacers for you in a lathe, maybe about 35 - 40mm in diameter with an 8mm thru hole. You could always tack steel spacers in place once you suss out where you want them - will make it easier if you're taking the seat out a bit.
I wouldn't be worried about bending the seat mounts a little bit. They'll flex a bit easy enough. You don't want to bend them heaps though because you wont have a flat mounting surface.
Anyway, something to look into.
Cheers,
plohl
plohl
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