Patchy's Fawlty Towers risk management. Enter at own risk

[StanTheMan]

Looks like I may be following you into the dark side Stan...
My head gasket has started letting a little drip drip of coolant into cylinder #2.
Runs on 3 cylinders for the first 20 seconds in the morning, then drives fine.
Not bad for a 30 year old car.....that's been pampered and over serviced all it's life.

Given the cost of a getting the head gasket done with associated head reco, along with the now due timing belt/water pump combo, I've asked Mania to source a 1.8.

Would love to drop a VVT in or even a BP4W, but might need an ECU for that.
Actually do you need an ECU like a MS or Haltech for the BP4W or just the VVT?

I know the VVT doesn't like the NA6 ECU due to coil pack and VVT issues.

There is ways around it. like using the existing parts from your 1.6.
with yours being a limited edition and in good shape . Id personally think long and hard about upgrading to a 1.8. although the 1.8 upgrade has given me insane amounts of joy. especially now with high compression & cams.

with the VVT you may need a box that drives the VVT.wich will need to be wired into 1.6 eCU. there are some electrical things to be considered if you split the 1.6 CAS signal to use 2 separate sensors using a 1.6 alternator & so on. happy to come around your place & show you whats different.
you can run the 1.6 ECU. you can also use what ever aftermarket ECU you want. If you decide on an MS..... don't go any less than MS3.

I threw my coil pack & CAS out. & used the 1.8 sensors . as well as the 1.6 alternator , 1.6 water pump pulley & 1.6 ballancer.
you will need to get a 99/00 fuel line. The VVT fuel line is a non return one . you need the BP-4W one regardless of which engine you use. It needs minor modification with the fuel regulator to make it fit.

[jules]

A visit would be great!
It's been a long time.

I'll be clear in a couple of weeks. I can PM you and we could maybe go from there?

@Paul, I read there were more constraints than just the alternator with a BP4W ie: throttle body, coil packs, throttle cable, AFM etc?
At least that's what they mention when looking at a NA8 BP donk?

Jules

[StanTheMan]

there is a good write up on Flying miata. I happen to have a few bits left over cause I used the NB throttle body, converted to cops & so on.

are you doing this yourself ? or getting Mania to put it all in for you?

[jules]

Mate I draw the line in home garage works these days when we start looking at engine and gearbox out jobs!

Everything else is fair game….maybe not timing belt/water pump jobs at home.

Malibu is still my daily driver so Mania can lend me a loaner so I’m not without wheels.

[jules]

This thread is where I got most of my info .

https://www.redlineautoparts.com/blog/nb-to-na-miata-compatibility-guide/

Also “The definitive VVT swap thread” I think you are referring to.

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-perfo ... eloading=1

[StanTheMan]

jot yourself these ones down as well.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/static.php/post/miata
https://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic. ... ps#p911820

and perhaps to a lesser extend , this one .
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=77793&start=30

[PaulF]

@Paul, I read there were more constraints than just the alternator with a BP4W ie: throttle body, coil packs, throttle cable, AFM etc?
At least that's what they mention when looking at a NA8 BP donk?

Jules

Yeah sorry, I meant compared to a BP05 NA8 engine which is the simplest swap. BP05 is what I did.

The Flyin' Miata instructions are very helpful. I went my own way on a few things though, like using an NA8 throttle cable and throttle body/TPS because I have a Megasquirt.

[StanTheMan]

update due,

Dyno run April 2022.jpg

ok so 114.5rwkw is about SP territory ....except no where near the torque. LOL

It's dramatic, Its emotional, Overtaking is such a joy.
its so raw.

however the interesting thing is the cam profile was built for torque. and check it out . the to0rque line does not let off.
yes the AFR needs looking at. O2 sensor was changed immediately after the run and is hopefully a bit better.

Next omn the cards is rust repair in the footwell fromn a leaking clutch reservoir.
as well as the anchor points.

the whole pan is getting taken out , repaired & re-welded in.

Major project.

[jules]

Major project?
It would never be any other way with you Stan lol

[StanTheMan]

footwerll has been repaired. 1 gigantic hole from a leaking clutch slave cylinder.
A lot of stuff got cut out & replaced /. all 4 anchor points for the seat were replaced with thicker plating.

MS3pNp was finally installed & got it working.
Idle valve wire had separated from the ECU. Probably happened years ago when the idle valve mysteriously stopped working quite some time ago.
LOL. Gawd.

working like a charm now.

I rattled canned F33enix almost 10 years ago. some of the panels have also rusted though. Whle they look grreat from a distance . the paint has been polished to with in an inch of its life . but 10 years isn't bad for a rattle;e can job

here is 1 panel . will probably put an extra coat on it . make it extra thick + apply Por-15 at the bottom of it to stop the rusting from all the leaves that continue to deposit themselves there

passenger side panel.jpg

[Lokiel]

Looks like you've mastered "the rattle can technique", I can't see ANY runs and that's quite a lot of real-estate to paint.

On a hot day I like to leave the can in the sun to heat up and if it's NOT windy, do the same for the part I'm painting - the droplets are finer and adhere to the part better without running. Always seem to get my best results this way.

In winter, when it's wet, or windy I use a hot-air gun to heat the part and rest the can in a bucket of hot water for a few minutes before starting.
I probably don't get as good results this way on larger parts because I worry about over-spraying beyond my large "cardboard box spray booth" that I use in my garage (when outside I don't care if I spray my hedges a bit but inside I slow down as I approach the edge).

Preparation, preparation, preparation, patience, lots of fine coats, and keeping the can the correct distance and moving at a constant rate is also needed - when you rush it, or are too close or slow you just end up with runs and lots of re-work (and DON'T forget the preparation work).

[StanTheMan]

sooper excited. Ive wanted these for a long time. Road trip coming up.

Mazdaspeed Type F seats.jpg

[bruce]

Cool. Red to match Patchy.

[Lokiel]

^
These are the ideal NA/NB "GT seats", comfy for long distance drives and the lateral support is great through "the twisty stuff".
When I had mine I described them as being like sitting inside a baseball glove, comfy and very supportive.

Unfortunately the thigh support is too high for daily use, making entry and exit awkward and you beat the crap out of the outside bolster when you do.
Also the thigh support is NOT high enough for trackwork and you still need to hold your butt in place by bracing your knees against the door and tunnel - the lateral support works great at the track though.

The rear outside-edge top of the seat contacts the top of the seatbelt mount so be wary of that - most have/get indents/tears at that contact point.

I suspect that you will not want them in the car all the time.
Consider offering them out for rent when you're not using them, people will be curious to try them out, especially on long trips where they excel.

[StanTheMan]

yes very good description of those seats lokiel. I would add that they also sit a bit highret than NA/B seats.

I currently have just a drivers seat in a different colour sheme. I love those seats and they are awesome for touring.

will; not ever take them out. LOL
Unless I sell them.

mazspeed Tye F in F33nix.jpg

and yes that crapppy seat belt has been replaced, and yes I do have to move the seat forward out of the way to attach/remove hard top