I need some solid cut & polish advice.

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Tony
Racing Driver
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:52 pm
Vehicle: NC
Location: Bathurst, NSW

Re: I need some solid cut & polish advice.

Postby Tony » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:17 pm

Once the polishing has been competed, I'd protect the paint with a wax or sealant.

I use the Klasse acrylic sealant which gives about six to twelve months protection. It's a simple wipe on, wipe off application.

More info about pads, cutting compounds, polish, waxes and sealants on the Waxit website here:

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/sealants
'09 NC2

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Gladiator
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:34 pm
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Springfield Lakes

Re: I need some solid cut & polish advice.

Postby Gladiator » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:52 pm

Mr Morlock wrote:Dave confirmed a number of my comments- but he has done a lot more than me. I agree with his advice and acrylic really has not changed. The first acrylic paint I did was about 35 years ago and it was the best ... crazy. I still read stuff and bought a really good book about 12 mths ago on painting at home. It is good to read a book at the photos etc and you reference anywhere. Acrylic is far more forgiving than 2 pack and can be redone panel by panel. There will also be plenty on the internet but at least books are good enough to publish.

Gladiator- my local paint places don't try to upsell. I had the compound out only yesterday and that was Motospray Cutting compound machine grade ( made here in Hallam) I was just doing a bit of hand rubbing- cost was $16.95 500g and bought 12 mths ago. That will do a lot of work- multiple cars I would say. Not saying there is not something better but it works for me for what I want.


Thanks mate. More good info

Tony wrote:Once the polishing has been competed, I'd protect the paint with a wax or sealant.

I use the Klasse acrylic sealant which gives about six to twelve months protection. It's a simple wipe on, wipe off application.

More info about pads, cutting compounds, polish, waxes and sealants on the Waxit website here:

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/sealants


Ok, I’ve got lots of browsing to do now. Thanks everyone. An overwhelming response.



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"I'd rather a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

1990 Silver Eunos NA6

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1600Dave
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Location: Newcastle, NSW

Re: I need some solid cut & polish advice.

Postby 1600Dave » Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:30 pm

Tony wrote:Once the polishing has been competed, I'd protect the paint with a wax or sealant.


Just be careful what you put on, acrylic takes a long time to completely "dry" by solvent evaporation. Sealing any solvent in can cause issues - see the recommendations about not using a silicon based polish within the first 3-6 months.

Mr Morlock - I also did my first paint job 30 years or so back, and it too was one of the better ones I did, I think because I was so careful with everything as I wasn't sure what I was doing.

I also saw mention made of using a dual action sander - personally I'd go with a plain rotary buff, with adjustable speed (you want a reasonably slow speed for cutting / polishing). I was given a Rupes buff as part payment for a job, it lasted for years, loved it, sadly it "disappeared" from a marina when I was detailing a 30 foot fibreglass boat. If you think an MX5 takes some cutting & polishing, be grateful you're not cutting back and polishing faded / chalky gelcoat on something that's 10 metres long and needs scaffolding to reach everything :shock: . 5 full days in that one......

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Gladiator
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Posts: 1963
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:34 pm
Vehicle: NA6
Location: Springfield Lakes

Re: I need some solid cut & polish advice.

Postby Gladiator » Fri Jan 19, 2018 1:17 pm

1600Dave wrote:
Tony wrote:Once the polishing has been competed, I'd protect the paint with a wax or sealant.


Just be careful what you put on, acrylic takes a long time to completely "dry" by solvent evaporation. Sealing any solvent in can cause issues - see the recommendations about not using a silicon based polish within the first 3-6 months.

Mr Morlock - I also did my first paint job 30 years or so back, and it too was one of the better ones I did, I think because I was so careful with everything as I wasn't sure what I was doing.

I also saw mention made of using a dual action sander - personally I'd go with a plain rotary buff, with adjustable speed (you want a reasonably slow speed for cutting / polishing). I was given a Rupes buff as part payment for a job, it lasted for years, loved it, sadly it "disappeared" from a marina when I was detailing a 30 foot fibreglass boat. If you think an MX5 takes some cutting & polishing, be grateful you're not cutting back and polishing faded / chalky gelcoat on something that's 10 metres long and needs scaffolding to reach everything :shock: . 5 full days in that one......


You would’ve had arms like Popeye by the end of it.


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"I'd rather a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

1990 Silver Eunos NA6


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