Another soft top install question...

[Captain Spank]

Hey peeps, Been awhile but I've been keeping tabs over the year reading up every so often on mods etc here.

Anyways I finally decided to get a new soft top and after much reading found the prestige ones from the UK tended to be some of the best if not better than oem around. So of course I brought one for my weekend project.

Now removing the hood was pretty easy, however for the life of me I've had nothing but trouble trying to install the new hood on the frame (oh yeah it's a 1990 NA series). After much struggling I managed to get the sides over the frame but seem to be having trouble with the rivets supplied to hold it in place. I know it seems really nooby but I'd never seen this style before and the instructions said you can use a pop rivet gun....well these certainly don't fit most universal pop rivets and I suspect a key piece is missing (I'm guessing the nail part that's in most pop rivets). Though I could be wrong....hey I'm more of an I.T guy that a mechanic.

I've even gone to a canvas specialist who's never seen these before which I found really odd after being sent from the hardware store because they didn't know either. One guy said I could hammer them, but I can't see how that would work other than to damage the button top end, that and it's near impossible to hammer on some parts of the frame.

So now I'm stuck without a car since it's been raining all week (and still is) and the motorbikes in the shop as well getting a rebuild.

So anyway I've attached a pic of the rivets in a small file.

Any help at all would be awesome.

Cheers team,

CS

[Guran]

Just bin those rivets and use regular aluminum pop rivets with a pop rivet gun. That worked for me with the Prestige top.

If you're recycling your rain rail make sure you tape over the holes with electrical or duct tape. Otherwise it'll leak water.

[Captain Spank]

Thanks Guran. Yes I thought if all else fails I'd switch to normal pop rivets. Looks like a Bunnings rip tomorrow then. Still would love to know how these other rivets supplied are meant to come together.

Funny about the rain rail, spent last night taping it up to stop any leaks. It was in pretty poor shape, but it's all the goods now.

CS

[Guran]

There's a special tool you can get to close those rivets. Search Wikipedia for "rivet" for details. But it's hardly worth it when a regular pop rivet gun does the same job.

[Juffa]

Correct me if I am wrong but I believe those supplied rivets in the attached photo are actually used to attach the rain rail to the soft top, not to attach the soft top to the frame.

In two previous installs I have chosen not to directly attach the rain rail to the soft top and as previously mentioned use heavy duty water proof tape to patch the holes in the rain rail.

J.

[Robbo]

Hey Captain Spank just a quick question as to where in UK you got your new top?. I have been looking at getting a new top for my 10AE. The places are, MX5 Parts and DandyCars both in UK. Dandy cars are cheaper than MX5 parts. I am just concerned as to the quality, and fit but, they are a LOT cheaper than buying them here in Oz. Has anyone else got anything to add on this subject.? Are the tops a real pain to fit?
Cheers
Robbo

[Guran]

I got mine from Prestige Autotrim in the UK. My installation feedback. I've since patched up the rainrail with some more tape and it appears to have solved the tiny leak I had at first. However I've still got the slight ripple in the soft-top above the doors - haven't tried to fix that but it should be solved by loosening the header plate and pulling the front corners a bit tighter.

[Captain Spank]

Ditto. Got mine from prestige as well. Happy with the quality. Was a prick to put on though. But then it's pretty damn freezing here and been raining all week anyway so did the install inside in a heated room which made a huge difference. The rivets supplied are rubbish as Guran mentioned. I ended up using normal pop rivets with washers. So it's all installed now, just need the roof to loosen up a bit so I can close it.

Though I will add the instructions supplied by Prestige were fairly basic. For more info I went to http://www.miata.net/garage/garagetops.html came in really handy.

[Robbo]

Thanks for the info guys.
This is a job I am not looking forward too. It appears I will have to remove the chrome hoops plus the seats to enable enough room to work. It is also nice to know you are happy with the hoods and fit. I have had no reports in regards the quality and fit of hoods from the other UK suppliers. I hope to get a blue fabric hood to suit the 10AE colour.
R

[Captain Spank]

I actually left my style bar on for the install. Though you need to be more flexible than a chinese gymnast when it comes to attaching the rain rail. I did remove the passenger seat however which made my job a lot easier. Had it out in the rain today to see if I had any leaks. Got one on the middle left of the rain rail, so I need to adjust the rainrail some more. Otherwise it's all good. Best to not install the rear carpet either until you've done the leak test, as it's easier to see the water flowing in without the carpet to soak it up over time.

This is today testing it in the rain.

[cshaks]

Robbo, I definitely found it easier removing my BD bar before installing the new roof. It was an extra 10 or 15 minutes work that saved me hours of frustration.
I would say that you would find the same thing with a style bar.

Chris

[Robbo]

Yes I think that is the way to go. The more room the better!
R

[Benny]

Those rivets in the picture are not pop rivets as such, but 2-piece rivets that are used in various leathergoods.
You can just put them together and bash them with a hammer, although you will squish the heads up a bit, but they will work OK and are stronger than they look.
The way they work is that the pin goes into the head and crushes up inside the head so they can't come apart.
Once hammered in, they do not come out, but have to be drilled out if required.