Brake Failure into hungry

[greenMachine]

Guran = serious metallurgical research expert IRL

GreenMachine = aging crackpot doing weird pseudoscience experiments in kitchen ...

[plohl]

On the speed front, last time I was at lakeside I did a 63.1 on ad08r's, with a Vmax of 180km/h. I have done a 62.2 on semis and my vmax was 178 km/h. The ado8r's are 205/50 and the semis 225/50... It seems I am loosing straight line speed with the larger OD tyres. Data from Tim J's sick aero'd mx5 shows a vmax of 192 km/h for a 59s lap. It's Naturally Aspirated.
With a stock engine, (and ecu) I think it's unlikely an na/nb mx5 would hit 200 by the kink...

[MossRatt]

On the speed front, last time I was at lakeside I did a 63.1 on ad08r's, with a Vmax of 180km/h. I have done a 62.2 on semis and my vmax was 178 km/h. The ado8r's are 205/50 and the semis 225/50... It seems I am loosing straight line speed with the larger OD tyres. Data from Tim J's sick aero'd mx5 shows a vmax of 192 km/h for a 59s lap. It's Naturally Aspirated.
With a stock engine, (and ecu) I think it's unlikely an na/nb mx5 would hit 200 by the kink...

I agree Plohl, I dont think my MX has hit 200. It's a good conversation starter though....
My lap times suggest I'm incredibly slow everywhere else so I wont be catching you for a while.
Have a good weekend.

[Tim_cyc03]

Whats a hand brake...?

Were you comfortable with the feel of the w3 pads? If so I would just get a new set of stock rotors, or DBA rotors (slotted or plain face) all round and get some new pads.

If not, sit down and read this thread for the next few days. (as I've posted somewhere else before)

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miat ... ons-81577/

^ there seems to be good solid advice in there for pretty much all mx5 track applications.

Combinations I have used are -

1. Stock rotors and stock street pads - No idea what I was doing, they stopped the car before corners for 1:16 - 1:14 lap times around lakeside - So I thought they were spot on!

2. Project Mu CDR Rotors (might be SCR, either way there is only one for the NA) with Project Mu HC+ - Stopped the car well, and when going down mount Nebo at night there were cool sparks from them! (still had no idea beyond them stopping the car)

3. Pro Mu rotor and Endless Type R - First time I started to understand a difference in compounds, these "I think" had a lower initial bite but modulated okish "I think" into the corner for some trail braking. However I didn't like them.

4. Pro Mu rotor and Pro Mu Clubracer pad - loved it, I have gone through many sets of these pads and they were used down into the 1:00.xx's at lakeside. I like the bite, it felt good. I had clubspec front and rear, and the balance was great. This is the first time I've mentioned balance, and to be fair it was good in all setups above also (and 5.)

5. RDA stock rotor and Pro Mu Clubracer pad - These were a one time interim after discovering 2 + year of track time had put massive cracks in the Pro Mu rotors, who woulda thought Rotors are a consumable... (all rx7 owners...) - This setup also made me realize that I probably didn't need the expensive BBK for the times I was doing at this stage.

6. v8Roadster 11.75 Wilwood Pro kit front and rear - Wilwood slotted curved vain - Circo M127 front and M119 - I didn't like them. Not enough bite for my liking. To be fair, I was probably so ingrained in the feel for the Pro Mu that I didn't have the talent to change.

7. Same BBK with Project Mu club spec front - m119 circo rear - Compared to similar cars using I'm pretty sure Hawk pads, I was braking about 50m later.

8. Same BBK with Pro Mu HC16-03 front and rear - These pads don't even need friction material to work! (I have photographic proof of that claim) These are what I'm using now and will stick with, but I wouldn't recommend these pads unless you have a BBK and are racing.

In short along with telling you what I think is the best setup, I've tried a little to justify why (although not very much).

I would get either stock or DBA rotors and put on some Project Mu Clubspec pads (RC-09 I think), and change the fluid.

Tyres are going to always be the biggest player with well pretty much everything, so don't forget to account for those in your brake planing. Since you have a track only car, I would chuck a set of slicks/grooved slicks on if you haven't already. That is another can of worms, but they are cheaper and faster and should make you brake better...

Thought I had a 2002km/h for Lakeside, but I just checked and it seems 198km/h is the best I've got so far.

Forgot to add, GT auto can help with purchasing the Project Mu pads.

[Magpie]

What Tim said! However I would suggest W5’s or W6.5 from winmax (contact Motorsport brakes). The W6.5’s if track only.

[MossRatt]

Thanks Tim and Magpie, and to everyone else that's helped out with suggestions and setups.
Update:
I have purchased a set of W5's for the front, W3's for the rear and will get some OEM front rotors as a spare till the RDA's wear down.
I'll do a full service including fluid replacement this week.
I say this week, which means every now and then till the night before the next track day....

Now the next mission is to find a supplier of caliper clips for the pads as MX Mania has zero stock for NB brake kits and their supplier doesn't make them anymore. I noticed I was missing one from a front pad and wouldn't mind some spares.
I accept charitable donations by the way. ;) Or if you know a place that stocks them let me know please.

The current brake setup should do me whilst the car and I get faster. So they should last a while.....

Cheers.

[rascal]

The caliper clips aren't strictly necessary. I think they are anti rattle clips more than anything.

fwiw I've run my car without the clips for over a year now with no issues...

[StanTheMan]

shouldn't that be into Russia? cause you were Rushing?

[lonesailor]

That procedure is stress relieving, it sounds like a good idea to prevent cracking, I doubt it will change the hardness though.