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Hi All,

I’ve recently become the proud owner of a 2009 MX5 (NC series 2). I’m keen to do some mods and upgrades to the car. Having previously worked on motorbikes, including exhaust upgrades, brake lines and changing brake rotors, I’m keen to take the work on myself. Some of the work will require jacking up the car (Much easier to lift a motorbike on stands!). There are quite a few posts and guides on how to jack up a car correctly however I have some clarification questions…

(i) I have attached a page of the 2009 MX5 NC service manual which highlights the jacking locations for a hydraulic trolley jack. Can I please confirm the front and rear sections I’ve circled in the images are correct and can take the weight of the car?







(ii) I notice the groove on the jack that comes with the car is not deep enough to allow contact between the car and the flat, “head” section of the jack. This means all the weight rests on the folded metal section of the car. If the car will be on jack stands (Potentially for a couple of weeks), is it better to have the jacks and car weight on the folded metal sections or the flat section? That is, in the second image, is position A, B or C best?





(iii) Any recommended hydraulic trolley jacks? I’m looking at an Arcan low profile trolley jack like this one… http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arcan-trolle ... 1c562c5fb5

(iv) Any recommended jack stands?

If there is any other advice or important information I should know when jacking up the car feel free to comment.

Thanks.

Welcome to MX-5 world.

The front and rear jack points you have shown are correct. I use a block of soft wood between the jack and those points to spread the load a little.

The sill jacking points are correct but DO NOT LIFT THE CAR USING THE PINCH WELD SEAM. If you look carefully at the car jack, you will see that the contact points are on the body floor section on the inner side of the pinch weld seam. Hmmmm...looks like I need to clean under there a bit. See yellow arrows.

I use hardwood blocks with a groove cut in them for lifting at the pinch weld seam points with a trolley jack or using jack stands on the seam points. The blocks rest on the reinforced floor area and put no pressure on the pinch weld.

I have four 2 tonne Trade Tools jack stands and a big mother 2 tonne workshop type trolley jack from Repco. I also have an old small 1.2 tonne trolley jack for lifting the car a bit at the pinch weld point so I can get the big mother jack under the front cross member jacking point OR I drive the car front wheels onto some blocks cut from an old step to get the clearance for the big jack on the cross member.

You should have the owners manual as well which gives you the jack points for the Mazda provided Jack.

You don't need a low profile hydraulic Jack but you do need to lift the car to insert a jack which will not fit under main cross member. There are plenty of threads on how to lift low cars eg run the car up a wedge/ ramp and guys ( JBT mentioned that) often fashion them from wood.

If you want to lift all 4 corners you need to take a lot if care.

You might want to drive the car for a while before modding it so you get a feel for what's necessary. If it's a road car the brakes are quite adequate for a vehicle < 1100 kg

pS the recommended lift points are the ones I would use ie diff etc. take the car to a garage and that is what they would do or they use a 4 poster.

Thanks JBT for the detailed response and the images, they really helped. Particularly the one with the contact points on the inner side of the pinch weld seam. I was not aware of these two points.

Likewise, thanks Mr Morlock for the feedback.

Jester_j70 wrote:Particularly the one with the contact points on the inner side of the pinch weld seam. I was not aware of these two points.

Many passenger cars that use a scissor jack have these points. Very common things. Taller SUV type cars do not.