na6 or na8

khanacross · Postby **khanacross** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 9:24 pm

hi all , quick question ,whats the difference between a NA6 and a NA8 ? thank you

Nevyn72 · Postby **Nevyn72** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 9:48 pm

About 200cc..... :wink:

khanacross · Postby **khanacross** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 11:01 pm

yea figured that out ,, the na6 has a 1600 and a na8 has a 1800 ,thanks for that

khanacross · Postby **khanacross** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:14 pm

thanks dundy

chrons_rotary · Postby **chrons_rotary** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:24 am

Quick list:
NA8 has:
-Bigger diff (also NA8 has 4.1, NA6 has 4.3)
-Bigger brakes
-Bigger engine
-Chassis bracing
-Better intake: airflow meter + variable TPS -vs- airflow paddle + simple TPS (better for aftermarket ECUs)

Also, while not important, reverse is a helical gear in the NA8, where NA6 is straight cut (noisier).
Found this out when i blew my NA8 box.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:12 am

There were also trainspotters differences between the early na8 and late na8.

Ecu is different plugs, oil gauge was a dummy. No chrome rings around speedo and taco. Door cards changed I think, early na8 had no arm rest I think na6 and late na8 did?

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khanacross · Postby **khanacross** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 12:47 pm

thanks guys ,I have a NA6,live in Newcastle area

speed · Postby **speed** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:35 pm

Na8 also has seat belt tower brace, boot release, different rear garnish and a nadi instead of a momo...

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:18 am

Na6 and early na8 had a working oil pressure gauge. Late na8 was like nb. Gauge was either on or off like a warning light aka a dummy gauge.

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Cus · Postby **Cus** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:22 am

Dundy2456 wrote:
sailaholic wrote:oil gauge was a dummy

What does this mean? Haha, curious as I have an NA6...

I have an NA6 too, as you acellerate past 4000ish RPM, the oil gauge will drop back from 6 to 4, and then continue climbing back towards 6. I noticed it after the first oil change and thought something was broken. Turns out it always does it, and panic I should not.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:51 am

essentially the NA8 is just a far better NA6 as a base for standard bolt on modifications.

If you are doing extensive mods.... perhaps then, it just doesn't matter, as you will perhaps turf all the bits that make a NA8 a better NA6.

Thats not to say an NA6 is bad. Mine has been through hell & back, Its been raped & pillaged & still runs with over 300 k km. Thats not to say it will do this automatically. With a little preventative maintenance it should be very easy to keep them running. same goes for the NA8

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:36 am

I changed the diff & drive line to make it stronger & stop better. But in a NA6 personally the diff is the first thing I would change in hindsight. It doesn't take much to snap the NA6 diffs.Especially now that they are getting on. I put in a torsen which I though was one of the best mods on the car. it just combined all the other suspension mods & made them work together superbly. On the other hand , it all depends what you planning to do with the car.
All bushes were changed too at one stage. I went for the usual upgrade with those bushes which will outlast the car itself. can't recall the name now. But they were a little too harsh. But that's subjective. I'm an old man.....If I was to do it again ( which will never happen now) I would go for the standard bushings.

There seems to be a massive difference with a car that has 150 k km on it & say 200 k km. At 150 the bushes seem almost new in comparison. While at 200 they were definitely worn out.

anyway....those are just my ramblings