How would you recondition a recently purchased NA MX5?

[llmoose]

I've just scored myself a 1990 NA mx5. Picked it up from a lady who owned it since 1990 and did very low km and only serviced it every few years. I want to give the whole thing a freshen up. I've got access to a full workshop and mechanics. My list so far is:

Oil filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs & leads
Timing belt & water pump

Brakes and tyres are good, fairly recently changed.

Anything else? There is a rocker cover leak so I'll replace that gasket.

Where is best for parts? Any specific brands I should stick too or avoid? I've got a contact at repco so was going to try them...

[smy0003]

Mx5parts.co.uk

[llmoose]

Is it just me or do they seem quite expensive without even factoring in postage...

[Regie]

id be changing all fluids also most importantly brake fluid

[speed]

How's the suspension?

Others have said that mx5parts.co.uk are cheaper than Mazda Australia.


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[llmoose]

The suspension seems OK but we haven't had a good look.

Unfortunately no log books came with the car although I spoke to the mechanic who had most recently seen the car, said the lady bought it to him once every couple of years or so but drove like 100km a week so she never really bought it in for a service.

There was an issue with the revs cutting out occasionally which we think we have linked back to the fuel filter. It was filthy. Certainly needs a good freshen up.

[manga_blue]

First up, the full Mazda factory workshop manual is here on this site: viewtopic.php?f=76&t=37363&start=15 I think both my link and plohl's are still working.

mx5parts.co.uk is usually way cheaper than Mazda here and they carry genuine Japanese made parts. Delivery is quick. Often I think Mazda Australia source most of their parts from ebay Vietnam and Thailand. The Made in Japan labelled parts are sooo much better quality.

Check the cooling hoses and replace the full set if any are dodgy. Kevlar reinforced rubber is much better than silicon. http://www.autolinkmx5.com/hose-set-6-c ... 1240-p.asp Not many sets include the smaller hoses around the manifold, the oil cooler under the manifold and the back of the head. These have more failures than all the rest combined. You can just use straight hose off the reel from somewhere like Repco for these. If there's any rust in the cooling system then you'll need to do some serious cleaning and descaling in the idle control system on the inlet manifold and throttle body areas.

Engine mounts crack and fail with age. Broken mounts cause excessive engine and gearbox tilt, making missed gears a little more frequent.

Your flexible brake lines are 25 years old. I wouldn't call it safe depending on rubber tubing that old to stop you. Braided stainless steel lines are a big improvement in feel.

If you've got A/C then check for signs of dampness in/under the passenger carpet and unblock the A/C drain hose if you do have some.

If your electric windows are slow then lube the guides with silicon spray . If they don't work then google window switch repair on http://www.miata.net.

Timing belt is meant to be replaced at 100,000. Plenty of debate in this forum about whether it's worth doing. It's usually best to replace water pump at the same time. In any case you also need to replace crank key, bolt and front oil seal with the belt. GMB water pumps from ebay are best. The other parts must be genuine Mazda. Google short nose crank on http://www.miata.net before embarking on that.

Replace all fluids is essential. That includes gearbox and diff.

[M1474]

Good wheel alignment
14 deg timing
Gearbox turret oil change
Miataroadster tall angled shift kit
Cowl air intake

[speed]

First up, the full Mazda factory workshop manual is here on this site: viewtopic.php?f=76&t=37363&start=15 I think both my link and plohl's are still working.

mx5parts.co.uk is usually way cheaper than Mazda here and they carry genuine Japanese made parts. Delivery is quick. Often I think Mazda Australia source most of their parts from ebay Vietnam and Thailand. The Made in Japan labelled parts are sooo much better quality.

Check the cooling hoses and replace the full set if any are dodgy. Kevlar reinforced rubber is much better than silicon. http://www.autolinkmx5.com/hose-set-6-c ... 1240-p.asp Not many sets include the smaller hoses around the manifold, the oil cooler under the manifold and the back of the head. These have more failures than all the rest combined. You can just use straight hose off the reel from somewhere like Repco for these. If there's any rust in the cooling system then you'll need to do some serious cleaning and descaling in the idle control system on the inlet manifold and throttle body areas.

Engine mounts crack and fail with age. Broken mounts cause excessive engine and gearbox tilt, making missed gears a little more frequent.

Your flexible brake lines are 25 years old. I wouldn't call it safe depending on rubber tubing that old to stop you. Braided stainless steel lines are a big improvement in feel.

If you've got A/C then check for signs of dampness in/under the passenger carpet and unblock the A/C drain hose if you do have some.

If your electric windows are slow then lube the guides with silicon spray . If they don't work then google window switch repair on http://www.miata.net.

Timing belt is meant to be replaced at 100,000. Plenty of debate in this forum about whether it's worth doing. It's usually best to replace water pump at the same time. In any case you also need to replace crank key, bolt and front oil seal with the belt. GMB water pumps from ebay are best. The other parts must be genuine Mazda. Google short nose crank on http://www.miata.net before embarking on that.

Replace all fluids is essential. That includes gearbox and diff.

Great detailed advice there.
Reminds me, I need to replace my brake lines! Thanks manga


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[manga_blue]

Correction: http://www.autolinkmx5.com/hose-set-6-h ... 1128-p.asp

Also well worth browsing your way through miata.net/garage

[de Bounce]

Check and clean the various water drains
Check and clean inside the front guards
Lubricate the brake caliper slide pins with the correct grease

[93_Clubman]

List for my NA8:
check/ replace engine oil, oil filter, & sump plug crush washer (every 6 months)
check/ replace gearbox oil, including turret (every 2 years)
check/ replace differential oil 75W-90 (every 2 years)
check/ flush/ replace brake fluid (every 2 years)
check/ flush/ replace clutch fluid (every 2 years)
check/ flush/ replace coolant in radiator & expansion tank (every 2 years)
clean/ replace air filter (every year)
replace fuel filter (every 2.5 years/50k kms)
check/ clean/ replace 4 sparkplugs NGK BKR5E-11 (every year)gap=1.1mm
check/ replace spark plug leads
check & clear ECU codes by disconecting battery
check/ clean/ adjust idle screw 850RPM +/- 50RPM
check/ adjust timing - 10 degrees BTDC
check/ replace CAS O-ring
check rear main seal drain hole
check/ adjust throttle cable freeplay 1-3mm
check/ clean throttle body & fuel injectors
check/ clean MAF element
check/ clean PCV valve
check/ clean restrictor operation
check throttle position sensor
check/ replace O2 sensor
check evaporative system
check/ clean cold start pipe fittng & connections
check fuel lines & hoses
check/ adjust/ replace alternator belt 4PK885 - new / used belt: 8-9mm / 9-10mm deflection with moderate pressure
check/ adjust handbrake
check/ adjust clutch pedal freeplay
check/ adjust brake pedal freeplay
check/ adjust front & rear wheel alignment
check/ adjust wheel balance
check/ adjust wheel nut tightness
check/ fill washer bottle level
check/ adjust/ replace tyres & pressures
check/ replace wiper inserts (annually just prior to Winter)
check/ replace front & rear brake pads, grease caliper slider pins & machine discs as necessary
check/ replace timing belt (every 100k kms)
check/ replace waterpump (best replaced in conjunction with timing belt)
check/ clean power window switch contacts
check/ tighten hardtop latches securing screws
check/ clean inside front lower quarter panels
check/ clean windscreen cowl drains & ventilation intake
check/ clean soft-top drains & drain pipes, as well as sill drains & front windscreen frame rubber side drains
check/ clean battery terminals & under battery tray for rust
check/ clean underbody
check/ clean boot, especially boot floor & arms for water or rust
check/ clean engine bay
check/ clean interior, especially parcelshelf & floorpan for water or rust
check/ clean/ polish exterior
check cooling system
check/ replace inner & outer gearshift boots & gearshift base collar/ cap
check brake lines, hoses & connections
check clutch line, hose & connections, including slave cylinder
check/ adjust/ replace front wheel bearing freeplay
check engine mounts
check steering operation & gear housing
check steering linkages, rack guide & tie rod ends
check front & rear suspension ball joints
check/ tighten bolts & nuts on chassis & body
check/ replace driveshaft dust boots
check tighten exhaust system heat shields
check/ tighten exhaust manifold bolts & nuts
check/ replace damper dust boots
check/ replace fuel pump wiring harness top tank connection
When present:
check/ adjust/ replace AC & PS belt - new/used AC belt 8-9mm / 9-10mm deflection with moderate pressure
check/ adjust/ replace powersteering fluid & lines
check adjust/ replace automatic transmission fluid

[Mr Morlock]

head spinning yet- sorry you asked?

You go to a competent mechanic and you check what has been done on the car and do a service. By all means have the mechanic do a check of what he can see and touch etc. The owners manual also defines service requirements. Don't just replace items that are ok its just often a waste of money. I would even wonder why replace timing belt and pump if the KM is really low - its said that the timing belt is done based on KMs not age.

For standard replacement parts for service you can source items here and don't need to go to UK for anything but maybe expensive items that cannot be sourced locally easily or cheaply. A mechanic would sooner pay or you pay a little more and have a car back and running same or next day rather than putting it aside - convenience and time is a big factor. You can buy many service items in the local Repco or Bursons etc- that what the Trade does. .

You don't even need to replace plug leads - if the car is running well and starting well etc then leave it alone. Its not like flying an aeroplane and worrying about it falling out of the sky or an engineer checking the flying hours or log book etc. Oh and the other thing to do is pay for Road side assist.

[hks_kansei]

Assuming that the previous servicing is unknown my list would be:

Spark plugs
Oil
Filter
Fuel filter
Gearbox/diff oils (if due, from memory every 70,000km or something?)
Inspect brakes (pads/rotors/lines/fluid)
Grease door hinges etc (if they look dry, or squeak)
Timing belt (if near/over 100,000km, and not 100% certain if it was changed)
Water pump (may as well do it while the belt is off)

Basically do a standard service, then crawl all over the car and see what needs doing.
As Morlock said, there's no point replacing things twice. If the timing belt was done at 95,000km there's no point doing it at 100,000km, etc.

[Dre]

Obviously a v8 conversion waiting to happen.