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If you have experience and/or expertise in fitting/fettling any of the following and you're prepared to share it I'd love to bribe you with beer, food, MX5 parts, accommodation in the Mornington Penisula and perhaps even $$ etc in exchange for helping me fit/sort the following while also showing/teaching me how to DIY the work for future projects:

Frog arms as in recent group buy
Wilwood (porn) front brakes
Front brake ducting inc sorting extra spacers for the (too small as supplied) fog light intakes
Rear pads
Poly diff bushes
Flush radiator, change coolant inc add Water Wetter and anti freeze because we also need to sort:
Coolant re-route pipe powder coating failure leading to the top hose blowing off thus dumping all the coolant at Winton last Sunday (flange it + secondary fixings?)
Check the engine bay to see if there are any other obvious items that still need sorting after all the recent work and my discovery on Sunday that 90% of the vacuum pipes were only fixed by being pushed on to a plastic barb!!!!
Relocating the driver's side seatbelt receiver to the tunnel to allow it to be used with the standard seat and with the Sparco
Guard rolling

Medium shot: If you also happen to have a hoist and can help sort oil leaks and fit a trans tunnel heat insulator that would be an added bonus

Long shot: It would be even more awesome if you can also do a further suspension alignment to suit the recent R888s with more neg and more castor along with probably a bit more low on the Teins.

There are professionals out there and on the Peninsula but most charge about $90 per hour.

No, this isn't a joke post Mr M. I would genuinely appreciate some actual help if there's anyone out there kind enough to offer it.

Dave be very careful about the diff bushes. They will increase the noise and vibration dramatically. Most people I've seen fit them to anything but a dedicated race car have ended up removing them.

I've never had problems with radiator hoses with a decent worm drive / tball or spring clamp. Are you sure it was done up? What type of reroute.

I've also seen recently where someone kept the standard Nb seatbelt mount on the rail with a sparco.

Also... That's a big list.


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Rad flush is easy. Heater on, drive, drain, fill with water, drive, drain, put in good stuff. Note how much comes out and refill.
Not sure if u can relocate seat belt clasp to tunnel, as I don't think there's a hole/reinforcement on an nb. Need to drill and fit a plate from underneath.

Yes, there's a mount hole on sparco, but it's a smaller bolt? Guess it would be safe?

I too would love someone to guide me with things. But I'm just gonna have a crack (and run to the forums when I bugger it).

bruce wrote:Not sure if u can relocate seat belt clasp to tunnel, as I don't think there's a hole/reinforcement on an nb. Need to drill and fit a plate from underneath.

Yeah Bruce, not sure about on the NB8 SE, but hks has said that he had to do as you say on his NB8A:
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=64884&p=808714&hilit=plate#p808714

Yes, you can fit the Sparco seat to a factory rail.
If you get a spare NB seat rail it is a 5 minute job to swap between the factory seat and the Sparco... Win Win.

Hi Dave. I'm willing to give you a hand. Have done some of that stuff on my previous Yella five.

My resume ==>> viewtopic.php?f=57&t=33958

I don't have a hoist, but I do have stands, decent torque wrenchs and other tools. I also have some left over Breeze constant torque hose clamps, which may fit your radiator hoses. These are the same clamps used on the SP.

PM me if you are interested



J.

Thanks for all the thoughts.

The car already has race engine mounts which introduced quite a bit more NVH. I'm prepared to live with more of it.

Don't know whether the hose clamp was ever properly done up, although it had been ok for 5,000kms. I just trusted that the engine builder would have tightened all fixings. I've subsequently been proved wrong, and not just on this one clamp. The coolant pipe isn't flared, and the powder coating on it had separated, so three possible reasons for the failure.

I have a seatbelt receiver fixed onto the modified standard rail on the Sparco seat by using the harness eyelet as a bolt. It's a completely solid fix but is so far down on the seat that it's very difficult to fasten the tongue into it. It also makes the seat just a tiny bit wider which makes the eyelet foul against the trans tunnel causing the seat to be difficult to move, even after modifying the trans tunnel with a VBH.

Yup, big list, and small pockets at the moment plus a wedding to attend in the UK, hence I need assistance. I have done quite a lot of the work on the car more recently, but I also need tuition on some of this stuff so I can start doing more of my own work in the future.

davekmoore wrote:The car already has race engine mounts which introduced quite a bit more NVH. I'm prepared to live with more of it.

Comp engine mounts are not in the same league for NVH as the poly diff mounts. They turn your entire boot floor into a huge amplifier for every little click and whir in the whole drivetrain. My diff mounts survived only a week before I ripped them out again, p1g of a job too. The car needs to be 100% race car before you think about those.

Have you thought about getting in touch with Dean? He has tidied up a few of the club cars after dodgy work by other workshops.

For the Frog Arms installation, see this extensive thread on miata.net: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=332166&highlight=frog+arms

It pretty much covers everything you need to know. The only real hassle is aligining your doors again so take your time getting them right.

There's a pretty good fender removal thread there too: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=402640

Dave you probably should have just asked me the other day.
Your list of things is all easily do-able.

How soon do you want it all done?

beavis wrote:Dave you probably should have just asked me the other day.
Your list of things is all easily do-able.

How soon do you want it all done?

Lovely, the unity in community.
Greg.