mx5cartalk.com

Hey everyone, just picked up my MX-5

Now being a total newb to them, I have a few questions..

How can i fix the power windows? They are so slow, and im almost scared to put them all the way down!
What oil weight is generally recommended? 5w-40? or something thicker?
What oil for the Gearbox and diff? Believe its a single pegger diff.

Also - Where would I place my hoist pads? I would assume lifting from the rails is a nono.

Any cheap places to get parts in Melbourne?

Can't wait to meet everybody

Start here, it should answer most of your questions.

http://www.miata.net/garage/

Anything else don't be afraid to ask.

Many thanks for the link!

Doesn't seem to say anything about gearbox and diff oils though.

Seems 10w30 is the preferred oil for most climates.

What do you fellas run?

Also the windows are slow as anything - Scared they won't come back up if i put them all the way down. Seems I need some special grease...don't think it would be readily available at supercheap auto would it? Know of any alternatives?

Redline MT90 in my gearbox

Think i'm just running Nulon 80W-90 Gearbox and Differential Oil in my Torsen 2

Every car should have owners manual which gives all basic specs and requirements

Sadly it was not included in the sale

Assume you got an NA?

Slow windows are usually caused by a combination of corroded electrical contacts in the switch and gummed up lubricant in the window mechanism. Search this forum for tips on both jobs - they're easy enough to DIY.

I have tried a wide variety of engine oils. The owners manual isn't particularly proscriptive. Best results I've achieved with 15W50 and 10W40 full synthetic. Lighter oils like 5W30 tend to give a lot of lifter noise if your lifters are worn (tick-tick-tick at idle). If you're not doing trackdays, you can get away with Shell Helix HX7 K 15W50 for around $30-$35 a bottle - just change it regularly (6 months / 5000km). It suits "well travelled" engines.

When you raise your car with a jack to put on jack stands, use centre of the diff casing and the centre of the engine cross member. Put the jack stands at the four reinforced sills just back from the wheel arches (look and you will see them). Do not put the jack on the chassis rails as they will easily crush.

But before you do anything, if you intend to work on it yourself, go buy this.

Thank you for the advice!

Picked up a NA8, over the moon with it, even with its little character defining quality's ;)

She has about 150xxx on the clock so not too bad. Might throw in some 10w 40 and see how it goes. The lube guide on castrols website has given me a fair idea on what to throw in it.

Will suss out the diy section and get cracking!

Hoist pads just put them on the pinchwelds (ie: the standard jacking points)
It can be a bit awkward with the shortwheelbase however.

Oil, 10w40 in a half decent brand. Castrol Magnatec is my usual.

Gearbox oil, and Diff oil, the 5 speed and the standard open diff use the same oils, I use Castrol VMX-M

If you've got a different diff though (Viscous, clutch-plate, Torsen) you may need to read up on what oils to use.
I know clutch pack diffs needs some special oil, I have no idea about viscous.
Torsen T2 uses the same as the open diff (T1 Torsen needs oil rated for Extreme Pressure)

booki89 wrote:Also - Where would I place my hoist pads? I would assume lifting from the rails is a nono.

This is an excellent article on lifting points http://www.metzair.com/downloads/Raise_Your_Miata.pdf

booki89 wrote:Can't wait to meet everybody

Where at in Melbourne are you at?
Could always meet with the rest at our (almost) weekly meet-ups
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=17056

Magpie wrote:

booki89 wrote:Also - Where would I place my hoist pads? I would assume lifting from the rails is a nono.

This is an excellent article on lifting points http://www.metzair.com/downloads/Raise_Your_Miata.pdf

Not a go at you, more a go at forums in general

I love how there's so many articles, threads, and questions about how to jack up an MX5 etc, and the answer is always to use the jacking points. (who'd have thought!)

10w40 is what I've been recommended a few times.
As for the windows, take the inner door trim off, and wipe the rails down with a damp cloth, get the dirty grease out, and replace with some fresh silicone lube. Worked for me about 6 months ago, still perfect.

hks_kansei wrote:always use the jacking points. (who'd have thought!)

I never got how this was such a consistently asked question.

you should not have too much problem in getting an owners manual- not expensive and always good info. You can also get Workshop like Haynes etc from libraries