How often do you do it - Change Spark Plugs

[Mr Morlock]

Slow cranking on NBs is normal. If its extra slow its probably battery. If the battery is original and not dríven weekly it needs to be left on trickle.

[manga_blue]

Thanks JB - I had a mate who was a bit of a mechanical genius who was fond of putting a bit of Graphite grease on things and I couldn't remember whether he used to put it on plugs. I guess the heat in that area would fry and harden any lube and cause problems.

I was advised to never use anti-seize/lube on plugs because it can lead to over torqueing on installation and the fry/harden issue to which you refer.

Always use a torque wrench to avoid overtightening. Grease has nothing to do with it.

[RS2000]

I've experienced slight galling between spark plugs & old aluminium heads, so now always use a thin coating of non-metallic, high temp anti-seize.

[hks_kansei]

How often depends on the plugs I'm using.

Normal copper ones, 20,000km or so.
Iridum or something fancy, maybe 40,000 or so.

I have iridiums in at the moment, but that's only because Bosch sent me a free set.
Normally I just use old fashioned copper, cheap to buy, and from my understanding easier for the coils to spark (plus, it's easier to gap a basic single electrode plug than the fancy multi types)

[Rocky]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I will check the battery terminals as it is a while since I've done that.
I only use the OE Panasonic Battery. Car always gets a 1hr open-road run each week so I don't normally use my trickle-charger. Should I?

Just checked my records and found that the original one actually lasted from Sept 2001 to June 2010, so that is almost 9 years not 7.
Current one is still in place - so 7 yrs so far.

Anyone have a battery tester? What are the cheap ones from Supercheap/Jaycar like? What's the difference between the SCA $14., $24. and $154. ones? Worthwhile buying a cheap one?

[JBT]

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

From the NGK website

1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

I only use NGK but imagine this would apply to any spark plug.

[Rocky]

Yep, I always use the NGKs JB. I have never owned a torque-wrench but I never 'overtighten' anything - wheel nuts, bolts, oil filters, you name it. I am a scrawny old bugger so I am always aware of the fact that I need to be able to get it off next time.

Just noticing Clubman's post about Fuel Filters. It has never been changed to my knowledge, and I have not done it because it is a 5h1t of a job. Maybe I need to find a good mechanic.

[manga_blue]

Anyone have a battery tester? What are the cheap ones from Supercheap/Jaycar like? What's the difference between the SCA $14., $24. and $154. ones? Worthwhile buying a cheap one?

Just go to your nearest battery shop and get a free test on a decent battery tester there.

[JBT]

Just noticing Clubman's post about Fuel Filters. It has never been changed to my knowledge, and I have not done it because it is a 5h1t of a job. Maybe I need to find a good mechanic.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the fuel filter unless you have other strange running or performance loss indications.

If the battery is not Panasonic/OEM, it is probably due for repacement at 7 years. Get yours tested as suggested above and don't be surprised if it's getting a bit down on cranking capacity.

[Rocky]

JB - not an 'aftermarket' battery. I looked around before I replaced the last one and I was not prepared to use something that was cheaper but didn't fit the space provided and arrangement for the terminals. I am a 'strictly OE' kind of guy.

Manga - so a battery shop wouldn't mind testing it even though there is no way they are going to ever sell me a battery?
It is sounding like a cheap battery tester is not very accurate??? (I'm an independent old bugger and I don't like asking people for favors)

[trader]

Have always used anti seize but after reading this and googling I think I will revert to torque only. As far as battery cranking is concernedI have both NA 's 1.6 and 1.8. The 1.8 is always slower even when I change the battery around. So it is not the battery. I have given up trying to get the 1.8 to start like the 1.6. The 1.6 is like a dog - always happy and raring to go!

[93_Clubman]

I only use the OE Panasonic Battery.

OEM Panasonic battery typically lasts 12-13 years or so.

Fuel Filter. It has never been changed to my knowledge

2000-2001 NB8B with an almost 17 year old fuel filter that's had to contend with fuel variability in regional area - it may not fix your current issue, but I'd change it. I know someone (not me) with a non-MX5 (same kind of setup ie in tank pump with sock filter as well as external to tank fuel filter) who didn't change fuel filters, & had to replace two fuel pumps in half that time due to partially or worse blocked fuel filters.

[RS2000]

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
From the NGK website
1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.
I only use NGK but imagine this would apply to any spark plug.

It all depends on whether the torque listed is for lubricated or non lubricated threads!
You will notice on that NGK site, that the torque for a 14mm spark plug (ie NB) in aluminium heads is 18-22 ft lb.
The Mazda factory NB manual states 11-16 ft lb.

Adding lubricant & then tightening to NGK specs would be overtightening. I prefer to use anti seize & tighten by feel.

[bruce]

Slow cranking is battery. Poor running is spark plugs (my simple analysis of things).
I use one of those small solar panel battery chargers (on sale is less than $20). Just trickles a tiny amount into the battery and seems to work. I reckon one of these attached to your current battery will improve things.

[JBT]

It all depends on whether the torque listed is for lubricated or non lubricated threads!
You will notice on that NGK site, that the torque for a 14mm spark plug (ie NB) in aluminium heads is 18-22 ft lb.
The Mazda factory NB manual states 11-16 ft lb.

Adding lubricant & then tightening to NGK specs would be overtightening. I prefer to use anti seize & tighten by feel.

That torque listed by NGK is generic

Again, from the NGK website:

4. Torque
Torque is critical in the plug’s ability to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. An over-torqued spark plug may cause thread damage or breakage, or compromise internal seals within the spark plug, leading to improper heat dissipation or exhaust gas blow-by.

The Mazda factory manual for the NB or the NC does not suggest lubricating the plugs.